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1、精選優(yōu)質(zhì)文檔-傾情為你奉上目錄專心-專注-專業(yè)第一課Cotton Growing棉花種植 Cotton is the world's most widely used fiber. Its popularity stems from both its relative ease of production and its applicability to a wide variety of textile products. The price of cotton yarn, however, is strongly dependent upon the cost of labor,

2、so that in the industrialized nations, where labor is expensive, cotton yarns may be relatively high priced.棉花是世界上使用最廣泛的纖維。它的流行源于它的生產(chǎn)及其在紡織產(chǎn)品廣泛適用性相對容易。棉紗價格,然而,強烈地依賴于勞動力成本,因此,在工業(yè)化的國家,那里的勞動力昂貴,棉紗可能相對較高的價格。Until relatively recent times, however, cotton was not as widely used as wool and linen. This was

3、because it was easier to spin wool or flax into yam because of their greater length. In addition, cotton fibers have to be separated from the seeds to which they cling. This procedure was very tedious and time-consuming when done by hand. Early machinery could be used on only the longest staple cott

4、on. So labor costs tended to be very high.直到最近,然而,棉花是沒有廣泛用作羊毛和亞麻布。這是因為它容易被毛或亞麻紡成紗由于其更大的長度。此外,棉纖維要從種子中分離出來的,他們依靠。這個過程是非常繁瑣和費時的,手工做的。早期的機器可以用在只有長纖維棉花。所以勞動力成本會很高。 The invention of the saw-type cotton gin made possible the exploitation of the short staple fiber, which thrived in the Carolinas and Virgin

5、ia of the United States. The dramatic increase in productivity, coupled with the low cost of labor in the southern United States, gave cotton a continually expanding portion of the world textile market. Increasing mechanization of fiber and yarn production helped keep the cost of cotton goods low. T

6、he, development of the textile machinery enlarged the production base.的鋸片式軋棉機的發(fā)明使可能的短纖維的開發(fā),興盛于美國北卡羅萊納州和弗吉尼亞州。生產(chǎn)率的急劇增加,加上在美國南部的人工成本低,給棉不斷擴大在全球紡織市場部。機械化程度提高,纖維和紗線的生產(chǎn)使棉花的成本低的商品。紡織機械的發(fā)展,擴大了生產(chǎn)基地。 Cotton cultivation requires warm climates with a high level of moisture or irrigation. The growing season is

7、from six to seven months long. During this period the seeds sprout and grow, producing a white blossom in about 100 days. The blossom produces a seed pod, which matures during the next two months. When the pod bursts, the cotton fibers are ready for picking.棉花種植需要溫暖的氣候和水分或灌溉高水平。生長季節(jié)是從六到七個月。這一時期的種子發(fā)芽

8、生長,在大約100天,產(chǎn)生白色花。當莢破裂,棉纖維是采摘。 Before yam manufacture, cotton is graded, sorted, and blended to insure uniform yam quality. Cotton is graded on the basis of color, staple length, fineness, and freedom from foreign matter. In the United States, cottons are divided into grades according to length of st

9、aple, uniformity, strength, color, cleanness and flexibility. These are compared with a standard supplied by the United States Department of Agriculture. The standard provides 6 grades above and 6 grades below the Middling grade. The most common grades are:山藥生產(chǎn)之前,棉花分級,分類,和混合均勻的紗線質(zhì)量的保證。棉花是彩色的,依據(jù)梯度纖維長

10、度,細度,和外來物質(zhì)的自由。在美國,棉花分根據(jù)纖維的均勻性,強度,顏色,長度為等級,清潔和靈活性。這些都是由美國農(nóng)業(yè)部提供一個標準的比較。本標準規(guī)定了6級以上,6級以下的中等。最常見的等級:(1) Strict good middling.(1)嚴格的上級。(2) Good middling. (2)上級。(3) Strict middling. (3)嚴格的中等。(4) Middling. (4)中。(5) Strict low middling (5)嚴格的低中等(6) Low middling. (6)低中等。 (7) Strict good ordinary. (7)嚴格好普通。 Th

11、e cotton fiber may be from 0.3 to 5.5 cm long. Under the microscope it appears as a ribbon like structure that is twisted at irregular intervals along its length. The twists, called convolutions, increase the fiber-to-fiber friction necessary to secure a strong spun yarn. The fiber ranges in color f

12、rom a yellowish to pure white, and may be very lustrous. However, most cotton dull.棉纖維可從0.3到5.5厘米長。在顯微鏡下看起來是一個帶狀結(jié)構(gòu),沿其長度不規(guī)則的時間間隔扭曲。曲曲折折的,稱為卷積,增加纖維間的摩擦力要獲得一個強有力的紗。從淺黃色到純白色的纖維的范圍,并可以很有光澤。然而,大多數(shù)棉花遲鈍。 A cross-sectional view reveals that the fiber is kidney-shaped with central hollow core known as the lum

13、en. The lumen provides a channel for nutrients while the plant is growing. The fiber consists of an outer shell, or cuticle, which surrounds the primary wall. The primary wall, in turn, covers the secondary wall surrounding the lumen. The cuticle is a thin, hard shell which protects the fiber from b

14、ruising and damage during growth. In use as a textile fiber, the cuticle provides abrasion resistance to cotton.管腔提供養(yǎng)分的通道而植物的生長。纖維由外殼,或角質(zhì)層,圍繞初生壁。反過來,包括初生壁,管腔周圍次生壁。角質(zhì)層是薄的,堅硬的外殼保護纖維生長過程中的破碎和損傷。在用作紡織纖維,角質(zhì)層提供了耐磨抗棉。第二課Cotton Properties and Uses棉纖維的特性和用途 A relatively high level of moisture absorption and

15、good wicking properties help make cotton one of the more comfortable fibers. Because of the hydroxyl groups in the cellulose, cotton has a high attraction for water. As water enters the fiber, cotton swells and its cross section becomes more rounded. The high affinity for moisture and the ability to

16、 swell when wet allow cotton to absorb about one-fourth of its weight in water. This means that in hot weather perspiration from the body will be absorbed in cotton fabrics, transported along the yarns to the outer surface of the cloth and evaporated into the air. Thus, the body will be aided in mai

17、ntaining its temperature.吸濕性和良好的吸濕排汗性能使棉纖維的一個更舒適的一個比較高的水平。因為在纖維素的羥基基團,棉花對水有很強的吸引力。當水進入纖維棉,膨脹,其截面變得更圓。水分和膨脹時濕讓棉花吸收水的重量約四分之一的高親和力的能力。這意味著,在炎熱的天氣里,身體的汗會吸收棉織品,沿運紗布的外表面和蒸發(fā)到空氣中。因此,身體會幫助維持其溫度。 Unfortunately, the hydrophilic nature of cotton makes it susceptible to water-borne stains. Water-soluble colorant

18、s such as those in coffee or grape juice will penetrate the fiber along with the water; when the water evaporates, the colorant is trapped in the fiber. Perhaps the major disadvantage to cotton goods is their tendency to wrinkle and the difficulty of removing wrinkles. The rigidity of cotton fiber r

19、educes the ability of yarns to resist wrinkling. When the fibers are bent to a new configuration, the hydrogen bonds which hold the cellulose chains together are ruptured and the molecules slide in order to minimize the stress within the fiber. The hydrogen bonds reform in the new positions, so that

20、 when the crushing force is removed the fibers stay in the new positions. It is the rupture and reformation of the hydrogen bonds that helps to maintain wrinkles, so that cotton goods must be ironed.不幸的是,棉花的親水性使得它容易受到水漬。如在咖啡或葡萄汁的水溶性色素會滲入纖維隨著水;當水分蒸發(fā),著色劑是困在纖維。也許主要的缺點,棉織品是他們的傾向,皺紋和去除皺紋的困難。棉纖維的剛度降低紗線抗起皺

21、能力。當纖維彎曲的一種新的配置,氫債券持有的纖維素鏈在一起破裂和分子滑動以減少纖維中的應(yīng)力。在新的位置的氫鍵的改革,所以當破碎力去除纖維保持在新的位置。這是氫鍵,有助于保持皺紋的斷裂和改革,使棉織品要熨。 Cotton is a moderately strong fiber with good abrasion resistance and good dimensional stability. It is resistant to the acids, alkalies, and organic solvents normally available to consumers. But s

22、ince it is a natural material, it is subject to attack by insects, molds and fungus. Most prominent is the tendency for cotton to mildew if allowed to remain damp.棉花是具有良好的耐磨性和尺寸穩(wěn)定性好,中等強度的纖維。這是抵抗酸,堿和有機溶劑,通常提供給消費者。但由于它是一種天然物質(zhì),它是受攻擊的昆蟲,霉菌和真菌。最突出的是棉花霉爛的傾向,如果允許存在潮濕。 Cotton resists sunlight and heat well,

23、 although direct exposure to constant strong sunlight will cause yellowing and eventual degradation of the fiber. Yellowing may also occur when cotton goods are dried in gas dryers. The color change is the result of a chemical reaction between cellulose and oxygen or nitrogen oxides in the hot air i

24、n the dryer. Cottons will retain their whiteness longer when line-dried or dried in the electric dryer.棉花抗太陽光和熱,雖然直接暴露于恒定的強烈的陽光會引起黃的最終降解纖維。變黃時也可能出現(xiàn)在氣干燥器干燥棉織品。顏色的變化是一種化學反應(yīng)的纖維素和氧或氮氧化物之間在熱空氣中干燥的結(jié)果。棉花將保留其白度較長時,線干或在電干燥器中干燥。 Of major interest is the fact that cotton yarn is stronger when wet than when dry

25、. This property is a consequence of the macro-and micro-structural features of the fiber. As water is absorbed, the fiber swells and its cross section becomes more rounded. Usually the absorption of such a large amount of foreign material would cause a high degree of internal stress and lead to weak

26、ening of the fiber. In cotton, however, the absorption of water causes a decrease in the internal stresses. Thus, with less internal stresses to overcome, the swollen fiber becomes stronger. At the same time, the swollen fibers within the yarns press upon each other more strongly. The internal frict

27、ion strengthens the yarns. In addition, the absorbed water acts as an internal lubricant which imparts a higher level of flexibility to the fibers. This accounts for the fact that cotton garments are more easily ironed when damp. Cotton fabrics are susceptible to shrinkage upon laundering.主要感興趣的是事實,

28、棉紗時干時濕比。此屬性的宏觀和微觀結(jié)構(gòu)特征的纖維的結(jié)果。當水被吸收,纖維膨脹,其截面變得更圓。通常這種大量的外來物質(zhì)的吸收會導致內(nèi)部應(yīng)力較高,導致纖維弱化。然而,棉花,水的吸收導致的內(nèi)部應(yīng)力減少。因此,減少內(nèi)部應(yīng)力來克服,腫脹的纖維變得更強。同時,在紗線溶脹纖維按對彼此更強烈。的內(nèi)部摩擦增強紗線。此外,所吸收的水作為一個內(nèi)部潤滑劑,賦予纖維較高水平的靈活性。這說明棉花衣服更容易熨潮濕時。純棉織物易收縮對洗錢。 Perhaps more than any other fiber, cotton satisfies the requirements of apparel, home furnish

29、ings, recreational, and industrial uses. It provides fabrics that are strong, lightweight, pliable, easily dried, and readily laundered. In apparel, cotton provides garments that are comfortable, readily dried in bright, long-lasting colors, and easy to care for. The major drawbacks are a propensity

30、 for cotton yams to shrink and for cotton cloth to wrinkle. Shrinkage may be controlled by the application of shrink-resistant finishes. Durable-press properties may be imparted by chemical treatment or by blending cotton with more wrinkle-resistant fibers, such as polyester.也許比任何其他纖維,棉滿足服裝,家居家具,休閑的

31、要求,和工業(yè)用途。它提供了強大的,面料輕薄,柔軟,易干燥,易清洗。在服裝,棉提供服裝,舒適,容易干燥,在明亮的,持久的色彩,容易照顧。主要的缺點是一種棉紗和棉布收縮起皺的傾向。收縮可以由應(yīng)用程序的控制防縮整理。免燙性能可以通過化學處理或由棉纖維混紡傳授更多的抗皺,如滌綸。 In home furnishings, cotton serves in durable, general-service fabrics. Although they may lack the formal appearance of materials made from other fibers, cotton go

32、ods provide a comfortable, homey environment. Cotton fabrics have been the mainstay of bed linens and towels for decades, because they are comfortable, durable, and moisture-absorbent. Polyester/cotton blends provide the modern consumer with no-iron sheets and pillowcases that retain a crisp, fresh

33、feel.在居家擺設(shè),耐用是棉花,織物一般服務(wù)。雖然他們可能缺乏來自其他纖維材料的形式出現(xiàn),棉織品提供一個舒適,溫馨的環(huán)境。棉織物一直是幾十年來的床單和毛巾的支柱,因為他們是舒適,耐用,和吸濕劑。滌/棉混紡織物提供沒有鐵的床單和枕套,保持一個清晰的現(xiàn)代消費,新鮮的感覺。 For recreational use, cotton has traditionally been used for tenting and camping gear, boat sails, tennis shoes and sportswear. Cotton is particularly well-suited f

34、or tent. A tent fabric must be able to "breath", so that the occupants are not smothered in their own carbon dioxide. Furthermore, exchange of air with the outside atmosphere reduces the humidity within the tent and keeps it from becoming stuffy. Fabrics woven from cotton can be open enoug

35、h to provide good air permeability for comfort. Tents should also shed water, when wet by rain, cotton yarns swell, reducing the interstices between the yarns and resisting the penetration of water. Today, however, heavy canvas gear is being supplanted by light-weight nylon in tenting equipment.用于娛樂

36、用途,棉花已被用于帳篷和野營裝備,船帆,運動鞋和運動服。棉花是特別適合的帳篷。一個帳篷織物必須能夠“呼吸”,讓居住者不被自己的二氧化碳。此外,與外界空氣交換減少濕度在帳篷和使它變得悶。機織物棉可以打開足夠舒適,提供良好的透氣性。帳篷也流下的水,當被雨水打濕,棉紗膨脹,降低紗線和抗水滲透之間的間隙。今天,然而,沉重的帆布齒輪被取代的輕質(zhì)尼龍檢測設(shè)備。 Cotton cord, twine and ropes are used in industry to bind, hold, and lash all kinds of things, from bales to boats. Cotton y

37、arns are used to reinforce belts on drive motors and in work clothing.棉繩,繩和繩行業(yè)中使用的綁定,持有,鞭笞和各種各樣的東西,從包船。棉紗是用來加強對驅(qū)動電機和工作服帶。第四課 Wool羊毛 The early history of wool is lost in antiquity. Sheepskin, including the hair, was probably used long before it was discovered that the fibers could be spun into yarns

38、or even felted into fabric. There is no evidence to support the theory that wool was the first fiber to be processed into fabric, but it seems certain that, as a part of the skin, wool was used for covering and protection by prehistoric peoples long before yarns and fabrics were made.羊毛的早期歷史失傳了。羊皮,包

39、括頭發(fā),可能很久以前發(fā)現(xiàn)的纖維可紡成紗線或織成織物氈。沒有證據(jù)支持,羊毛被加工成的織物的第一光纖的理論,但似乎肯定的是,作為皮膚的一部分,羊毛被用于覆蓋和保護的史前人類早在紗線和織物進行了。The earliest fragments of wool fabric have been found in Egypt, probably because of the preserving qualities of the climate. These have been dated from 4000 to 3500 B C. The earliest example of wool fabric

40、 found in Europe has been dated about 1500 B C; it was unearthed in archeological digs in Germany. Danish sites have yielded excellent fragments of early wool fabrics dated about 1300 to 1000 BC. These fabrics are rough and coarse and contain considerable wild sheep hair.毛織物最早的碎片已經(jīng)被發(fā)現(xiàn)在埃及,可能是因為保鮮品質(zhì)的氣

41、候。這些已經(jīng)從公元前4000到公元前3500 。最早的羊毛織物的發(fā)現(xiàn)在歐洲已經(jīng)于約公元前1500 ;這是出土的考古發(fā)掘,在德國。丹麥的網(wǎng)站已經(jīng)取得了優(yōu)良的片段的早期的羊毛織物約公元前1300至公元前1000年。這些織物粗糙,含有大量的野生綿羊毛。 Wool is a natural fiber of animal origin. Though vegetable fibers were probably the first to be used for spinning and weaving into cloth, animal fibers in the form of skins wer

42、e the earliest type of clothing worn by man.羊毛是來自于動物的天然纖維。盡管植物纖維可能被用于紡紗和織布的第一,在動物毛皮纖維最早的人穿的服裝類型。 There are indications that, as early as the seventh century BC, people began to sell and buy woolen goods. The supply of wool available to the world every year amounts to about 5000 million pounds. After

43、 scouring, this is reduced to about 3000 million pounds of pure wool. The wool crop is insufficient to meet the world needs. Pure wool is often mixed with other type fibers and recovered wool to meet the demand.有跡象表明,早在公元前第七世紀,人們開始買賣毛織品。羊毛每年向世界供應(yīng)量的大約500千萬磅。沖刷后,這是減少到大約300千萬磅的純羊毛。羊毛的產(chǎn)量不能滿足世界的需要。純羊毛通常與

44、其它纖維的混合和再生毛滿足需求。 The qualities of different wools vary greatly. The merino sheep of Australia, South America and South Africa produce very free and soft wool. The quality of wool from these sources depends upon the conditions and heritage of the sheep. Port Philip wool is the finest in Australia and

45、 is used to produce the highest quality woolen and worsted fabrics.不同品種的羊毛在質(zhì)量上存在較大的差異。澳大利亞細毛羊,南美國和南非產(chǎn)生非常自由和柔軟的羊毛。從這些來源的羊毛的質(zhì)量取決于羊的飼養(yǎng)條件和品種。菲利普港羊毛是澳大利亞最好的,被用于生產(chǎn)粗紡和精紡毛織物質(zhì)量最高的。 Wool from South Africa is very wavy with a good white color and is used for good quality worsted and woolen goods. South America

46、n wool is usually of lower quality than wool from Australia or South Africa. Merino wool has been successfully raised in Germany, France, Spain and the United States and is of high quality.南非產(chǎn)的羊毛是一個好的白色非常波浪和用于優(yōu)質(zhì)的精紡呢絨。南美洲羊毛通常是低質(zhì)量比從澳大利亞或南非羊毛。美利奴羊毛已在德國,成功地提高了法國,西班牙和美國是高質(zhì)量的。 To provide the freest-qualit

47、y wool, production is scientifically controlled. Sheep are inoculated against disease, dipped in chemicals to protect them against insects, and unless on rangeland, fed diet designed to produce healthy animals.提供最優(yōu)質(zhì)的羊毛,生產(chǎn)的科學控制。綿羊接種抵抗疾病,浸泡在化學物質(zhì)來保護他們免受昆蟲,除非在草地,設(shè)計生產(chǎn)出健康的動物飼料。 Wool can be sheared from th

48、e living animal or pulled from the hide after the animal has been slaughtered for its meat. Sheared wool is called fleece or clip wool and is quality to pulled wool, which is taken from the hides of slaughtered sheep Wool considered superior剪羊毛可以從活的動物或從隱藏拉后,動物被屠宰后的肉。剪羊毛是羊毛或羊毛和質(zhì)量夾毛被,這是從宰羊羊毛被認為是優(yōu)越的隱藏

49、Shearing is currently done very rapidly with power shears. A good worker can completely shear a sheep in less than one minute, sometimes as short as 20 seconds. Recent developments in Australia have led to a process called chemical or biological shearing. The animal is fed a chemical similar to that

50、 used in the treatment of cancer, which cause the hair to fall out within two weeks. Within very short time following the loss of the hair, it starts to grow again, and the sheep suffer no damage. Fibers obtained in this way are slightly longer than those sheared from the animal, and there appears t

51、o be less physical damage to the fibers.剪切當前功率迅速完成剪。一個好的工人可以完全剪力在不到一分鐘,一只羊,有時短為20秒。澳大利亞最近的事態(tài)發(fā)展導致的過程被稱為化學或生物剪。動物喂食化學相似,用于癌癥的治療,導致頭發(fā)脫落兩周內(nèi)。頭發(fā)的損失后,在很短的時間內(nèi),它又開始生長,和羊不受損害。以這種方式得到的纖維比剪切從動物稍長,似乎有對纖維的物理傷害少。 Usually shearing is done once a year in the early spring, and the fleece is removed in one piece, roll

52、ed, packed into bags, and shipped to the nearest processing center. Pulled wool is removed from the hide by one of two methods. It may be treated with a depilatory that loosens the fiber and permits it to be pulled away from the skin without damaging the hide, or it Can be loosened by the action of

53、bacteria on the root end of the fiber. Pulled wool is usually mixed with fleece or clip wool before processing into yarns and fabrics.通常剪切是一年做一次在早春,和羊毛是一塊,刪除卷,包裝成袋,并運到最近的加工中心。拔毛是由兩種方法中的一種從隱藏刪除。它可以用脫毛,松開纖維和允許它被拉離皮膚無損傷隱藏處理,或者可以通過細菌對纖維的根端動作放松。拔毛通常與羊毛或羊毛混合前夾加工成紗線和織物。 Preliminary grading of wool fibers i

54、s done while they are still in the fleece, because this step is important in determining cost. Factors used in determining the grade of wool include fiber fineness or diameter and length, the age of the animal, the natural color, the breed of the sheep, and the condition under which the animal lived

55、. After grading, fleeces are shipped to the mill, where they are prepared for further processing into yarns and fabrics.初步的羊毛纖維的分級是還在羊毛做的,因為這一步確定成本是很重要的。用于測定棉纖維細度和品位的因素包括直徑和長度,年齡的動物,自然的色彩,羊的品種,和的情況下,動物的生活。評分后,羊毛被運送到工廠,在那里他們準備進一步加工成紗線和織物。 Wool is attacked by hot sulfuric acid and decomposes completel

56、y. most other mineral acids of all strengths. Wool will dissolve in caustic soda solutions that would have little effect on cotton.羊毛是由熱硫酸襲擊并完全分解。大多數(shù)其它不同濃度的無機酸。羊毛會溶解在燒堿的解決方案,將對棉花的影響不大。第五課 Structure and Properties of Wool羊毛纖維的結(jié)構(gòu)和性能 Under the microscopic observation, the length of the wool fiber shows

57、 a scale structure. The size of the scale varies from very small to comparatively broad and large. As many as 700 scales are found in 1 cm of fine wool, whereas coarse wool may have as few as 275 per cm. Fine wool does not have as clear and distinct scales as coarse wool, but they can be identified

58、under high magnification.顯微觀察下,羊毛纖維的長度顯示了一個規(guī)模結(jié)構(gòu)。規(guī)模的大小從比較廣闊的和大的很小變化。多達700的尺度是羊毛的1厘米,而粗毛可能為每厘米275少。細羊毛沒有粗羊毛為清晰明確的尺度,但他們可以在高放大倍數(shù)的確定。 A cross section of wool shows three distinct parts to the fiber. The outer layer, called cuticle, is composed of the scales. These scales are somewhat horny and irregular in shape, and they overlap, with the top pointing towards the tip of the fiber; they are similar to fish scales. The major portion of the fiber is the cortex (composed of cortical cells ); this exte

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