轉載安杰關于SoulHouse兩周年慶活動的一篇文章.doc

轉載安杰關于SoulHouse兩周年慶活動的一篇文章 OnSaturdayafternoon,agroupofregularstoWuhanscoffeecircuitturnedupatSoulHouse,acoffeeshopperchedatopabluffthatoverlooksanerodingwedgeofapartments.SoulHousewascelebratingitssecondanniversary,andfortheoasiontheowner,Jason,calledinHongJie,aShanghaibasedbaristaandChinasrepresentativeatthexxWorldBaristaChampionshipheldinVienna. SoulHousetypifiesWuhansgrowingcoffeeshopcultureascenegrowingnotjustinthenumberofshopsbutonematuringaswell,offeringpremiumvarietiesandreflectingincreasinglysophisticatedpalates.Itjoinsaclassofotherlocalesthatofferaselectionofpremium,importedcoffees,aswellasin-houseroastedbeansusuallyhauledinfromYunnanprovince.SoulHousesmenuincludesanaffogato,a“coldshot”milkedservedoverfrozencoffeecubescoffeefromYunnanprovinceroastedin-house,NekisseapremiumcoffeeimportedfromEthiopiaandaselectionofwhiskeys.NearbyonTanHuaLinStreet,coffee,tea,vintageclothingstoresandartgallerieslinearefurbishedgraycobblestoneroad.TanHuaLinStreetisagemofpreservedarchitectureinacultureofurbanizationwithanappetiteforlarge-scaledemolitionandforeignimitation.CuttingstraightthroughoneofWuchangsoldestneighborhoods,itbringsasophisticatedmaterialismtooneofthecitysmoreun-sanitizedpockets,whereMandarinChineseisspokenlikeasecondlanguage. SoulHousebenefitsfromtheTanHuaLinculturewithoutbeinglocatedonthestreetitself.Itlurksintheadjacentneighborhood,afeaturethatboostsitsbohemiancredibilitybutalsomakesitmoreobscureevenlocalsnearbycannotprovidedirections. Theclienteleisunpretentious,though,andalaidbackHongJieseemedtorecognizethisonSaturday.HongJieisbroad,thick,andbulky,andhasthesoftnessofaformerputersciencemajorwhorosewithinthebeverageindustry.Heoperatesanespressomachinewithlargehandsintowhichespressocupsdisappear.InShanghai,heworksasasalesrepresentativeforLavazza,themulti-nationalItaliancoffeechain. Firstonthemenuwasasampleofthehouseespresso,followedbyaroundofcappuinos.AneagergroupofvisitorsincludingseveralbaristasandmyselfcrowdedaroundHongJieforasamplingcoffeesfromhisownbeanstockpile.Choiceofcoffeebeaniscentraltothebaristasidiom.Championbaristaswillsamplecoffeefarandwideforgustatorysubtleties,takingintoaountsmallnuancesinproductiontechniqueswhich,takenwithotherfactorslikethealtitudeatwhichthecoffeeisgrown,amounttomorevibrantflavorsintheendproduct.AtthexxWorldBaristaChampionshipinMelbourne,PeteLicata,thisyearschampion,explainedhowtastemotivatedhissearchforhiscoffeesupplier:“Isoughtouthiscoffeebecausewasdoingveryintentionalfarmingpracticesthatdirectlyimpacttheflavorofhiscoffee.” Elocutionisanothermarkofasuessfulbarista.Jason,theownerofSoulHouse,toldmethatpoormunicationwasprimarilytoblameforHongJiesperformanceatthexxWorldChampionships(Hefinished41stoutof55).“HisEnglishisterrible,”hesaid.(“ItsworsethanyourChinese,”headded.) HongJiesketchedsomedetailsfortheguestsbutwithheldverbosedescriptionsoftheflavorororigin;hedidnotattempttodistinguishhiscoffeeinanyway.Thecoffeehebrewedwasintentionallyweakfittingforacultureaustomedtodrinkingtea,wherelowercaffeineintakeisspreadoveranentireday. “Idrinkbigcups!”HongJieexclaimed,measuringafootwithhishands.“IfIdranksuchbigcupsofstrongcoffeeinonedayIdd