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1、服裝術(shù)語(yǔ)1.front neck drop to crossover 前領(lǐng)深(肩頂至領(lǐng)交接位)2.neck width 領(lǐng)寬3.collar width point 領(lǐng)肩闊4.notch depth 領(lǐng)肩距離5.lapel width point 前領(lǐng)襟闊6.shoulder width 肩闊7.total sleeve length (from shoulder seam) 袖長(zhǎng)(肩骨度)8.total front length (from hps) cf 前身長(zhǎng)(肩頂度,前中度)9.across chest (1” below armhole) 胸闊(夾圈落1”)10.across wai
2、st(15” from hps) 腰闊(肩頂落15”)11.across hip 坐圍闊12.across hem (straight) 腳闊(直度)13.sleeve width 袖臂闊14.sleeve opening 袖口闊(邊度)15. sleeve width at cuff seam 袖闊(袖骨度)16.cuff height 袖高17.cuff slit height 袖叉高18.princess dart placement 公主骨位置 from hps on armhole 肩頂至夾圈度 from cf armhole 前中至公主骨(夾圈底度)19.hps to elasti
3、c belt 肩頂至橡肋腰帶度20.belt length 腰帶長(zhǎng) length on wearness right (relaxed) 右邊腰帶長(zhǎng)(穿起計(jì))放松度21.front extention from cf 前幅延伸(前中度)22.welt pockets 袋位置 placement from hps 肩頂度 placement from cf at top 前中至袋頂度23.back neck drop 后領(lǐng)深24.collar stand height cf 下領(lǐng)級(jí)高(后中)25.total back length (from hps) cf 后身長(zhǎng)(肩頂至后中度)26.back
4、 circular piece dimension 后擔(dān)干詳情 width top 闊(頂度)27.back seam placement 后骨 from cb at top 后中至骨頂度 from cb at waist 后中至腰度28.hps to top of piece 肩頂至腰駁幅頂度29.piecing width 腰駁幅闊30.lapel point 襟貼31.slit/vent height 擺叉高32.placket width 門(mén)統(tǒng)33.curved dart 打褶34.at joining seam self/lining 在面里接縫處35.waistband 腰帶36.
5、kick out 外翹37.from fold to end 從折褶到末端38.follow pinned portion at send back to decrease fullness 按別針樣拿掉39.forwward shoulder 過(guò)肩40.hem height 下裙高41.improve belt eyelet the thread 腰帶眼改進(jìn)線42.bodice pocket facing 上身口袋貼邊43.collar band 領(lǐng)貼44.collar point 領(lǐng)尖45.sleeve cap 袖衫46.armhole drop 夾底47.band height 貼高48
6、.peplum height cf 前中裝飾裙高度49.control armhole shape 控制好夾圈形狀50.front belt loop 前腰帶掛耳51.guard over 保護(hù)52.snap and buckle 紐帶和帶扣53.pocket placement from hps 裙口袋位置54.cuff height 克夫高55.muscle 袖肥56.center back(front) fold 后(前)中對(duì)折57.center back (front)line 后(前)中線58. center back neck point to waist 后頸點(diǎn)至腰59.grai
7、n line 布紋60.hips line 坐圍線61.overlock 及骨,包骨62.paper pattern 紙樣63.final inspection 尾期檢查64.hanger 衣架65.open seam 開(kāi)骨66.pressing 熨燙67.puckering 起皺68.set in sleeve 上袖69.tucking 打排褶70.top stitching 間線71.button stand 鈕門(mén)搭位72.collar rab 領(lǐng)袢73.conceal zipper 隱形拉鏈74.handing loop 吊袢75.plaastic string 膠針76.shoulde
8、r pad 肩墊,肩棉77.zipper puller 拉鏈頭78.button hole 鈕門(mén)79.buttom 衫腳80.beltloop 褲耳81.collar fall 上領(lǐng)級(jí)82.collar stand 下領(lǐng)級(jí)83.collar point 領(lǐng)尖84.facing 貼85.front 前幅86.front opening 前開(kāi)口87.in seam 內(nèi)浪骨88.patch pocket 貼袋89.placket 明筒90.pocket bag 袋布91.side panel 側(cè)幅92.side seam 側(cè)骨93.sleeve crown 袖山94.sleeve head 袖頭95
9、.sleeve opening 袖口96.sleeve slit 袖叉97.under arm seam 夾底線98.collar point spread 領(lǐng)尖距99.collar point 領(lǐng)尖長(zhǎng)100.inseam length 內(nèi)長(zhǎng)101.sweep (half) 裙闊(裙底半度)102.waist (relaxed) 腰圍(松度)103.waist (stretched) 腰圍(拉度)104.approval sample 批辦105.attach collar 上領(lǐng)106.back cover front 后搭前107.back stitch 返針,回針108.buckle-lo
10、op 皮帶扣109.initial sample 原辦,初辦110.edge stitched 緝邊線111.snap fastener 四合扣112.pocket flap 袋蓋113.pocket facing 袋貼114.raise waist detail placement 1/2” 腰的抽褶位置上提1/2”115.dont fuse entire self facing . 整個(gè)貼邊不要粘襯116.zipper tail should be bound in lining. 拉鏈用里布做滾邊做凈。117.make self bend back and 1/4” topstitchi
11、ng at back neckline and armholes instead of self binding due to too much stretching.領(lǐng)和夾做1/4”折邊不用滾邊。118.sleeve hem must curve up towards shoulder as marked on sample.袖邊必須按標(biāo)識(shí)做,向肩彎。119.make coning even all around. 錐形要分配均勻。120.elastic at waistline should have more elasticity.腰線上的橡筋應(yīng)該更有彈性。121.use plastic
12、 taping along armhole to help control armhole measurement from dropping /stretching. 夾圈要用透明膠帶拉,使其不拉伸。122.reduce shirring on front skirt drape 25% ,to make it less heavy.前裙垂簾上碎褶量減少25%,使其不那么重。123.reduce binding along neckline to be 1/4” finished.減少領(lǐng)處滾邊,做1/4”。124.close side openings on skirt as pinned
13、on returned sample, by stitching one layer on top of the other.在下裙的側(cè)邊開(kāi)口處按別針閉合,車(chē)1層明線。125.please control edges of layers from ”curling ”. 每層控制好不要卷。126.hem circ.(tops, skirts, straight 1cm up from bottom)下擺底邊上1cm127.hem depth 下擺折邊128.shoulder ( seam to seam ) 肩寬縫到縫129.yoke depth at center back 后育克高130.
14、armhole in curve 掛肩彎量131.armhole straight 掛肩直量132.cuff circ. (on bottom edge) 克夫?qū)挘ǖ走吜浚?33.cuff depth (from seam to seam) 克夫高(縫到邊)134.sleeve placket length 袖口門(mén)襟長(zhǎng)135.neck opening (seam to seam) 橫領(lǐng)寬(縫到縫)136.collar stand depth (seam to seam) 領(lǐng)座(縫到縫)137.collar depth at cb (seam to seam) 后領(lǐng)深(縫到縫0138.collar length (from button to buttonhole) 領(lǐng)長(zhǎng)(紐扣到鎖眼)139.placket width 門(mén)襟寬 140.patch pocket position 貼袋位置141. make shirt layer starting 9” below front waist on wears right a closed side seam with a 4” overhang as pinned sample. 從腰縫下9”開(kāi)始做裙層,然后
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