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Hi,welcometotravelogue.IamYanling,stillinChengdu.ThiscapitaloftheancientShuKingdomMostChinesemetropolistodaybaffleswiththebalanceofgallopingtowardsmodernizationandpreservingtraditionalwayofliving.FewcitiesinChinatodaylikeChengduthatissofondofmemoriesfromthepast,andmanagetoactuallylivinginit.Evengrowinginrocketspeed,Chengdu,thecityofmorethan8million,somehowfeelslikeararecityoasiswherethebustleslowsdownandtheoriginalspiritstaysintact.Andwhatisit?Wheretofeelit?
OnceyouareinChengdu,youhavetolearnoneword,andtrulyunderstandthespiritofit–xiuxian--allowyourselftorelaxaslongasyouneed,soidlingaroundinoneofteahousesfor5hoursdoesn'tmakeyouaslackerinChengdu.Chengduteahousesareeverywhere.Scatteredateverycornerofthestreets,ineveryparkandevenineveryofficecompound...Pensionersorpillarsofthesociety?Peopleofallkindspatronize(資助)teahousesmoreoftenthantheirgroceryshop.Sowhatdoyouseeinateahouseinanafternoon?Smallsociety,asChengdupeoplecallit.Itistheperfectspottorelax,tosocialize;topeople-watch.
Onceyouareinteahouses,enjoythetimelessqualityofyourteatime.Eventhewaitersandwaitressondutyoftentakeitslowsincethereisnosuchdemandasforfastandefficientservice.
Butforsomeonewhoworksasear-picker(經(jīng)典的詞語(yǔ)啊,挖耳屎的人,相信你在茶館見(jiàn)過(guò)這種人吧,學(xué)會(huì)該怎么說(shuō),earpicker,那挖耳屎勺子叫做:earpick),anage-oldrareprofessionthatisprobablyhardtofindajobelsewhere,theytaketheirjobveryseriously.Althoughtheirtoolsremindmeofmydentist'sscaryweapons,howcanIpassonthechancetotrysomethingforthefirsttime?!Itwascertainlybotheyesopeningandearopeningexperience(大開(kāi)眼界)tohavemyearpickedoutsideofmybathroom,bysomeoneelse,insuchacomplicatedprocedure...
Noteveryteahousehastobethisadventurousofcourse.SomepeoplewouldliketocompareChengduteahouseswithcoffeehousesinParis,probablynotafterbeenearcleanedinRenminpark,morelikelyhaveenjoyedacupofgreenteainoneofthesekindofteahousesalongFunanriver,Chengdulocalstakeprideintheircityforgoodreasons.Historyandcommerce,animalandpeopleapparentlyallmeetinpeace.Chengdupeoplelovedogs,yes,aspet.
OnceyoustepintothedogmarketbyFunanRiveronaSundaymorning,youwillunderstandwhyChengdulocalsprankishlycallit"internationaldogexpo".(狗博會(huì),哈哈)Afulldisplayofthebeautyofvariations--color,race(一般來(lái)說(shuō),race我們知道的意思是賽跑,但是這個(gè)地方表示狗的品種),originandcharacter!Asadogdevotee,itsurprisedmethatmanyofthemevenIhaven'tseenbefore...
Iamsojealousof(經(jīng)典句型,表示嫉妒。。)thosewhotakealittlepuppyhometoday.Yougetgoodbargainshere(這個(gè)句子也特別經(jīng)典,表示東西特別便宜,如果你給別人介紹成都的荷花池,也用上這個(gè)句子吧。).Ofcourseittakesmorethanjustmoneytohaveadog.Youneedhaveacomfortableliving,slowpacedlife,contentedlifestyle.Soonerorlater,Iwillhaveadog,perhapshavetomovedownherethen...That'sthedownsideofbeingatraveler,manythingsyouloveandcare.Youcan'ttakethemhome.
Butifyouareafleamarket(跳蚤市場(chǎng),就是那種東西特別廉價(jià)的地方,我覺(jué)得成都荷花池也基本上可以這么翻譯。怎么突然發(fā)現(xiàn)我對(duì)荷花池這么感興趣了呢?)fanatic,andhappentobeinthecityonSunday.Thisisthebestplacetorummageandfindsomecarriablebargain.Everythingfromoldbooksandcoins,Tangpotteriestooldgramophonesfromunidentifiableorigin,youneverknowwhatyouwillfindtotakehome.Somestallownersherearehobbycollectorsthemselves,theytendtobemorenonchalanttopricenegotiation,butmorekeeninlecturingyouabouttheir"realthing",Someothersaremindreaders.Theylookatyourinterestandexperiencethenofferingyouapricethat'sjustslightlyoutofyoursustainablebudget...
Iamjustatravelreporter,butreallyifyouareinterestedinChineseantiquefurnitureyoudon'thavetoreadamilliontrillionbooks,allyouneedisafeelingandavibe.It'saboutpickingupthings,holdingthem,andsmellingthem.Conveysthatkindofaffinity,feellikeyours?Takeithome!Thisone?Itisnicebutshouldbelongtosomeoneelse..."Iwastheremostlyforthefun,notthefinds,buthere?!Chengdusnacks,Chengduxiaochi,somethingIwontmiss!Chillsdon'tsimplyblastthetastebuds,theystimulatethemaswell,Chengduisacityofsimplicityandsophistication.Placeofabundance,peoplewhohavetime,nowonderitbecomesacenterofmodernpoetryandmodernartsceneintheSouthwest.ImetasculptorinChengduHuayuan,asmallartgalleryhiddeninoldtownyetafamousvenueformodernartexhibits.AfterhavemetmanyentreprenantmodernartistsinChina,modernartstartsbecomingmoredisputabletome.
TalkingtoMr.ShicertainrestoredmyfaithinChinesemodernartists:whoarenotsittingbetweentwochairsoftheoldandthenew,theforeignandthelocal,butcomfortablysettleinthemiddle,rootedinlocalculture,incorporatingtraditionalelements,freefromchoicesofmaterial,creatinganewformofexpression.WhenyouwalkintoaSichuanhouse,orwalkaroundtheentirecity,sweepsofthedistinguishedmalaflavorwilleasilymakeyoucraveformoreSichuanfood.Mypleasantmodernartexhibitvisitalsorestoredmyconfidenceinfusionfood.Dininghereiscertainlynotonlyagastronomicexperience--thesettingwithaJapanesetwistglazedtheChengdulocalfondue:hotpot,intosomethinglesssocial,butcertainlyhasamoreexclusiveandevenromanticappeal.
Somemayquestiontheauthenticityofsuchfusionfood.ButasIwastold,itisneveraconcernhereinSichuan.SearchingforvariationsandfinddiningexperienceisChengdulocals'insatiablepursuit;Sichuancookinghasthetraditionofencouraginginnovationtomeetthatneed.Certaintouristprogramsaresoobligatoryintravelitinerarythatitfeelslikeamust,thenitfeelslessattemptive,liketheSichuanoperashow,butonceyouarethere,youwillunderstandwhyyoucan'tmissit.Thisiscertainlyoneofthesemoments!Itiseasyfortoday'swell-traveledaudiencetosupposethesecretbehindchangingfaceandspittingfireinSichuanopera,butitishardnottobeimpressed.
Puppetshowisalwaysmyfavorite.EverytimeIcanthelpgawpingattheperformerandwonderinghowsomeonecaninjectlifeintoawoodendummyandturnitintoapersonofcharacter,thiscase,avividbeautyofcharacterthateasilywontheheartofall,effortlessly...
Asxiuxianasitis,Chengduisavibrantmoderncityafterall,5minuteswalkinChunxiroad,thecenterofthecity,youwillfeelchargedwithanextradozeofenergy,15minswalkingaroundallshoppingmallsandsalesignswillraiseyourheartbeat,50minslater,loadedwithyourharvestedshoppingbagsandmorefaithinthecityinprocess,youwillprobablyfindChengdu'surbanmarketingslogan"acityonceyoucome,youwillfindithardtoleave"makesverymuchsense.ButforChengdulocalswhoworkhardforit,atemporaryleaveisalmostnecessary.Ilearnedanewphrasecalled5/2peoplehereaddressingforlocalweekenders.Someofthemsimplydrivetovillagesaroundthecityandspendtwonightsatfarmershouse,andsomeotherslivesmoreregularly5daysinthecityand2daysinthesuburbs.Formostcitypeople,theurgeofarespitefromthecityisoftencoincidewiththeunquenchablelongingforit.Reasons?Toomany...OnecanfindhotpotalloverChinainoneformoranother,ithasreallybeentakentoheartbytheSichuaneseandforthemoststrikingadaptationtolocaltasteyoufindhere.
AfterafewdaysgettingmyfeetwetinChengdunightscene,itwasnotdifficulttogetahordeofyoungsterstogetherandguidemetotastethetruehotpot,again,nowhimpysweatandsour,onlytheauthenticMAandLA,tinglingspicy.TheseasonthecookedfoodinoilspicedwithMSG,saltandchilipowder.Theeffectispowerful.Localsexplainitsuseasaresultofclimate-chiliesarewarminginwinterandcoolinginsummerand,accordingtoChinesemedicine,dispel"wet"illnessesbroughtaboutbyhumidconditions.ButIfoundMALAhotpotissimplythebestsocializingdinner.Whenyoushareabighotpotofmunchiesovercoldbeerswithyourwarmnewfriends,itguaranteesaMALA:tinglingspicyparty!Chengdu'snightlifehastobeoneofthemostvibrantIhaveseeninChina,certainlystartsearlierthanShanghai,endslaterthanBeijing,asmanynightstreetfoodstallsasGuangzhou.
Frommynewfriends,theseyoungsterswhoarealwaysontheprowlforsomethingnew,Ilearnedabouttheirfavoritelittlebar,aplacemagnetizesloyalunder
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