紡織基本常識,有用啊課件

BASICPRINCIPLESOFTEXTILE

紡織基本常識原料–紡–織–染–整RAWMATERIAL–SPINNING–WEAVE–DYEING–FINISHING即40S/1要比20S/1的紗支幼細(xì)

GENERICNAMESOFTEXTILEFIBERS-USA

原料紡織纖維專用名稱

NATURALFIBERS天然纖維CELLULOSE(VEGETABLE)纖維素(植物纖維)COTTON棉FLAXORLINEN亞麻HEMP大麻JUTE黃麻RAMIE苧麻MANILAHEMP馬尼拉麻MINERAL礦物纖維ASBESTOS石棉KERATIN(ANIMAL)角蛋白(動物)ALPACA駝羊CAMELHAIR駱駝絨CASHMERE羊絨HORSEHAIR馬MOHAIR安哥拉山羊RABBITHAIR兔毛SILK–BOMBYXTUSSAH中國種桑蠶WOOL羊毛MAN-MADEFIBERS

人造纖維ACETATE醋酸纖維SECONDARYTRIACETATEACRYLIC腈綸GLASS玻璃LYOCELLMETALLIC金屬M(fèi)ODACRYLIC改性腈綸NYLON6,66錦綸,尼龍NYTRILOLEFIN聚烯烴類POLYETHYLENE乙綸POLYPROPYLENE丙綸POLYESTER滌綸RAYON粘膠CUPRAMMONIUM銅氨VISCOSE粘膠人造絲RUBBER橡膠VINYON維尼綸FROMFIBRETOFABRIC

由纖維到織物FROMRAWMATERIALSGOTHROUGHSPINNINGPROCESSTORAWYARNAFTERDRAWINGBECOMETOCONEOFYARN,READYFORWEAVEINGORKNITTINGTHEREARETHREETYPEOFFABRIC WOVENFABRIC KNITTINGFABRIC NON-WOVEN紡織-先紡後織,紡是將原料不論是植,動物或是人造纖維都須要經(jīng)過不同的程序後,紡成不同粗細(xì)的紗.之後以便供給織布或其他不同行業(yè)用.織-常見多為平織或針織,織物可分為三類平織針織無紡布不織布YARNIDENTIFICATION

一般常見的紗支表示方式SPUNYARN捻紗SYMBOL表示:s–RingSpun環(huán)錠紗,各種尺寸Carded普梳,CombYarn精梳OpenEnd(OE)氣流紡,YARNCOUNT紗支

LARGENUMBERMORETHINERTHEYARNSINGLEYARN40/132/1PLYYARN40/250/2FILAMENTYARN(MANMADEFIBERS)長絲紗SYMBOL表示:d–DENIERYARNCOUNT紗支

LARGENUMBERMORETHICKYARN150d/144f–150Denieryarnsizeformby144filamentMicrofiber–eachfilamentyarnsizeunder1Denier.長絲紗-是由一根或多根連續(xù)平行較細(xì)的長絲組合成紗,一般以dDenier旦尼爾,是以9,000米長,紗有多少克重量.1d=9,000米的紗重1克重.D值越小,紗線越細(xì),即75d要比150d的紗支幼細(xì).超細(xì)纖維-紗支內(nèi)每一根長絲小於1d禰為超細(xì)纖維.75D/96F,75d粗細(xì)由96根長絲組合成的紗.捻紗

-目前所講的紗支數(shù)大都是指“英制支數(shù)”，用英文字“S”表示.它的定義是：在公定回潮率，重一磅的紗線，它的長度有幾個(gè)840碼，就稱為幾支紗線.紗線越粗，S值就越小，紗線越細(xì)，則“S”值越大.即40S/1要比20S/1的紗支幼細(xì).FABRICCONTENTS,織物成份BASEONTHERAWMATERIALS100%COTTON65%COTTON35%POLYESTERBLENDYARNISCROSSSPUNTWOMATERIALSCROSSWEAVINGTWOMATERIALS依原材料表示100%棉65%棉35%滌有混紡或是交織平織布平織布組織是由二根紗,簡單交織在織布機(jī)上組成.這二根紗一般禰作經(jīng)及緯在英文表示為WARP,及WEFT.又可示為ENDS單根頭分及PICKS梭(一般國內(nèi)是以公制計(jì)算頭分及梭敉數(shù))經(jīng)紗一般在布面上為密度較高,同時(shí)是與布邊平行,紗品貭及捻度較高.織布時(shí)一般要漿紗.緯紗是由布辺到布辺與經(jīng)向交錯(cuò),不需漿紗.依織布機(jī)的裝備不同,可織造不同組織多種不同的布,一般通用有平紋(府綢),斜紋布,可分為STWILL左斜或ZTWILL右斜,左斜為左高向右低,反之為右斜,通常經(jīng)向雙股紗時(shí)為右斜.這以布正面檢示為準(zhǔn).另有色丁鍛紋,小提花,大提花.及有絨毛織物如燈芯絨及平絨(絨是在織後再割剪而成的)織物的組織及經(jīng)緯密度直接関係到布面外觀,手感,厚薄,功能效果,及強(qiáng)度耍求.針織布針織布是使用一根連續(xù)紗所組成的布.主要分成二大類weftknits緯編及warpknits經(jīng)編.WeftKnits–緯編織的紗是水平方向,由一端到另一端,一般常見的針織布多為園機(jī)針織circularknitting.胚布及成品經(jīng)常成園筒狀,或經(jīng)開辺成平布.WarpKnits–經(jīng)編的紗是沿布延升方向,一般經(jīng)編針織布的彈性較緯編布差.針織布亦有提花,大提花,等不同織法,及疋染色或色織.基本針織布如右邊所示BASICWEFTKNITSPECIALIZEDWEFTKNITJERSEY單面DOUBLEKNITS雙面RIB羅紋PILEKNITS絨毛KNITTEDTERRY毛圈INTERLOCKKNITS雙面DYEDANDFINISHED染色及整理PIECEDYED疋染MADETHEGREIGETHENDYED先織後染DYECLASS:染料分類DIRECTDYES直接SULPHURDYES硫化VATDYE還原(士林)INDIGODYES靛藍(lán)REACTIVEDYES活性ACIDDYES酸性染料DISPERSEDYES分散染料PIGMENT顏料YARNDYED色織DYEDTHEYARNTHENWEAVEORKNIT先染後織可使用不同染料PIGMENT-DYEDORPRINTED顏料染色或印花PRINTING印花ROLLER輥筒印花ROTARYSCREEN園網(wǎng)印花FLATSCREEN平網(wǎng)印花HEATTRANSFER熱転印紙印花DYECLASS染料分類DIRECTDYES–WIDERANGECOLORS,CHEAPANDSIMPLE,POORWETANDLIGHTFASTNESS–CELLULOSIC直接染料–僅用於植物纖維,便宜及橾做簡單,各種顏色可選用,惟對濕擦及日光牢度差SULPHURDYES–DARKANDDULLMAINLYBROWN,KHAKI,BLUEANDBLACKWASHING,DRYCLEARING,LIGHTANDPERSPIRATIONFASTNESSISGOODBUTRUBBINGISPOOR.-CELLULOSIC硫化染料–多用於深及暗的顏色,一般為棕,卡其,藍(lán)及黑色.不受漂.對水洗,乾洗,日光牢度好,但磨擦牢度差.VATDYES–INSOLUBLEDYESTUFFWITHOUTSPECIALREDUCTIONTREATMENT.MAINLYDARKHUESBUTBRIGHTERANDBROADERRANGETHANSULPHURDYES.EXCELLENTFASTNESSTOWASHING,LIGHTANDPERSPIRATION.FASTTOCHLORINEOXIDIZINGBLEACHES.-CELLULOSIC還原染料–又稱士林染料是–種不溶性染料,用於深及鮮豔色,水洗,日光牢度很好.而且可受漂.REACTIVEDYES–FULLRANGEOFCOLORS.NOTFASTTOWASHING.FAIRTOGOODFASTNESSTOLIGHT.-CELLULOSIC,PROTEINFIBER,(WOOL,SILK)活性染料–利用化學(xué)反應(yīng)與纖維接合,各種顏色,及牢度良好.ACIDDYES–COMPLETECOLORSRANGE,BRIGHTANDEASYAPPLICATION.MAINLYAPPLYTOPROTEINFIBERANDNYLON酸性染料–容易染色,有各種顏色,主要用於蛋白質(zhì)及尼龍絲.DISPERSEDYES–FULLRANGEOFCOLORS.SMALLPARTICLEFOREASETOPENETRATE.SPECIALDESIGNEDFORDYEINGPOLYESTER分散染料–有各種顏色,染料分子小容易穿透上色.主要用於滌綸PIGMENT–COMPLETERANGEOFCOLORS,NOTATRUEDYESTUFF.INSOLUBLEANDHASNOAFFINITYTOFIBER.MECHANICALLYADHEREDONTHEFIBERSURFACEBYTHEUSEOFBINDER.PERFORMANCEANDFASTNESSPROPERTIESDEPENDONNATUREOFBINDER.POORRUBBINGANDSOLVENTFASTNESS顏料–非正式的染料,無法溶解與紗結(jié)合,是利用接合劑與布表面粘合色牢度及功能是依接合劑而定.磨擦牢度不好.METHODOFDYEING,PIECEDYED平織疋染色方式JIGGERDYEING卷染BATCHDYEING浸染–針織CONTINUOUSDYEING連續(xù)壓染FINISHINGMERCEIZATION絲光PEACHSKIN桃皮絨效果SANDING磨毛BRUSHING抓毛COATING涂層WASHING洗水BLEACHING漂白GARMENTDYE成衣染色PFP-PREPARINGFORPRINTING前處理印花用半漂布PFD-PREPARINGFORDYEING前處理染色用半漂布

CONTINUOUSDYEINGFINISHINGNON-WOVEN無紡布,不織布ATEXTILESTRUCTUREPRODUCEDBYBONDINGORINTERLOCKINGOFFIBERSORBOTH;ACCOMPLISHEDBYMECHANICAL,CHEMICAL.THERMAL,ORSOLVENTMEANSANDCOMBINATIONS.是纖維經(jīng)由機(jī)械,化學(xué),熱溶及粘合而成,FORINTERLING,NEEDLEPUNCHINGORSPUNLACED,ANDTHEDISPOSALGARMENTS.主要用於襯,及用針刺法或水刺法做成填充棉,及用於即棄成衣等.一般以重量厚度表示.ZIPPERSIZE拉鏈尺寸SIZE尺寸WIDTHOFTEETHORCOILWHENZIPPERISCLOSED(mm)拉好後的牙寬12.7–2.923.0–3.63,44.0–5.55,65.7–6.67,8,9,8.1–9.11011.4