鞋成型工藝說明

鞋面與大底成型

ASSEMBLEUPPER&O/S

依照鞋子結構的不同,通常分車中底與結幫兩種成型流程:

Accordingtothedifferentshoeconstruction,therearetwokindsofassemblyprocedure,strobel&lasting.

結幫流程又分為一次流程及兩次流程或多次流程.

Forthelastingconstruction,thereare3kindsofprocedure,onetimelasting&twotimeslastingormorethantwotimelasting.

這裡僅以一次結幫流程為例,了解成型的過程:

Hereonlyshowtheonetimelastingprocedureforexampletoknowtheassemblyprocedure:1.浸康特

SOAKTRCOUNTER1,浸康特時注意康特角不要浸膠。PaymoreattentiontothebottomofTRcountercan’tbesoaked.

2﹐用鑷子夾住康特放入513藥水中,只要除康特腳外其他部分有碰到膠水,就馬上取出來.浸膠不宜過久﹐過久會使康特軟化。Clipthecounterwithforcepsandthenputitinto513primer.Don’tsoakcountertoolongtoavoidthecounterfromsoften.3﹐康特浸好后需放在鐵綱滴干。Putthecounterontheironshelfaftersoaking.

4﹐康特擺放鐵架上涼干時不宜過久,不要超過15分鐘。Makethecounterdrynotmorethan15minutes.5.操作員應戴上手套及口罩等環(huán)保用品.Theoperatorshouldwearthesafethingsofglove&respirator.AppliedTooling:鐵網(wǎng)Ironmeshwork手套Glove鑷子forceps鐵架Ironshelf1,從裝鞋面的車架上取下鞋面,貼上流水標以便配雙作業(yè),剪斷連線,放鞋面入流水帶上.Taketheupperfromtheshelfandattachpairnumbersticker,thensnipthethreadthatmakeonepairofuppertogether,atlastputupperonconveyerbelt.2,剪線時不要剪到鞋面.

Don’tbreaktheupperwhensnipthread.

3.注意鞋面要配雙.Note:Needmaketheupperpair.2.準備放鞋面

PREPAREUPPERAppliedTooling:剪刀scissor1.取一小塊泡棉,對折好再夾在夾子上,刷膠時將泡棉在膠水裡浸一下.Preparealittlepieceoffoamorclothandfoldthennipitwithclamp.Soakamomentbeforecementing.2.從裝楦頭的車上取下楦頭,將楦頭底面周圍10MM寬刷白膠Takethelastfromtheshelf,thencementaroundlastbottom10mmwidthwithlatex.3,刷膠時左手握楦頭,右手拿夾子.刷膠要均勻到位.Duringcementing,thelefthandholdthelast&therighthandholdclamp.Makesuretocementevenlyandcompletely.4.操作員應戴上口罩等環(huán)保用品.Theoperatorshouldwearthesafethingsofrespirators.3.楦頭底刷白膠

CEMENTLASTBOTTOMWITHLATEXAppliedTooling:夾子Clamp膠壺Gluepot4.中底正面刷白水膠

CEMENTTHEINSOLEBOARD1.中底整形,壓力30KG,時間5”.Moldtheinsoleboardwithpressure30kg&time5”.2,刷膠前將中底板排放整齊,左手壓住中底板,右手拿刷子.Beforecementing,thelefthandholdthelast&therighthandholdclamp.3.用刷子沿中底上面周圍15MM寬刷白膠,刷膠要均勻到位.Taketheinsoleboardfromtheshelf,thencementaroundthetopofinsoleboard15mmwidthwithlatex.Makesuretocementevenlyandcompletely.4.操作員應戴上口罩等環(huán)保用品.Theoperatorshouldwearthesafethingsofrespirators.AppliedTooling:夾子Clamp膠壺Gluepot5.鞋面後跟刷膠

CEMENTHEELUPPER1.滾里及鞋面後跟兩邊擦黃膠,膠水要均勻,到位.不可積膠.Cementthebothsidesofcollarliningandheelupperwith766Nyellowglue.Makesuretocementevenly&completelybutnotamassintoapile.2,刷好膠的鞋面﹐按規(guī)定在流水線上排放整齊,保持順暢的流程,流進烘箱。Puttheupperontheconveyerbeltinordertokeeptheproceduresmooththroughovenaftercement.3.設定烘箱的溫度為70度,時間1分鐘.Adjustthetemperature70&time1min.4.過此烘箱的作用是烘干膠水,軟化鞋面.Letgluedry&softentheupperthroughtheoven.AppliedTooling:刷子Brush膠壺Gluepot鞋面後跟/滾裡刷膠過烘箱6.貼後跟康特

ATTACHEHEELCOUNTER

1.左手拿鞋面﹐右手拉開內(nèi)里.左手拿鞋面,右手如圖所示拿康特,先使康特腳平齊畫線,對準后跟中心點并貼死,再壓康特的上沿固定.Lefthandholdtheupper,andtherighthandundrawthecollarlining.

Theleftstillhandholdtheupper,andtherighthandholdthecounterasshownontheillustrationNo.2.Atfirstmakethebottomedgeofcounteralignthemarkline¢ermark,andpressthebottomcenterportionofcounter,thenpressthetopcenterportionofittofixthecenterposition.

3.右手從中心點向兩邊固定康特下沿.Pressthecounterbottomfromthecenterportiontobothsides.4.5,固定康特外腰及內(nèi)腰.Attachthelateral&medialportionofcounter.6.貼滾口內(nèi)裡並摸平.Atlastattachthecollarlining&makeitsmooth.4,固定康特外腰3,固定康特下沿5,固定康特內(nèi)腰2,固定后跟中心點1,后跟滾里與鞋面須拉順6,滾里貼死并摸平7.後跟康特整形

MOLDHEELCOUNTER1,裝上正確的定型模.通常熱熔膠港寶用冷定型,康特用熱定型,溫度大約60度,壓力5KG,時間大約8”.Setupthecorrectmoldingmold.Commonlyforhotmeltcounterusethecoolmold,forTRcounterusetheheatmoldwithtemp60&pressure5kg&time8sec.

2.將裝好康特的鞋面,分左右腳放在相應的定型模上.Puttheleft&rightupperwithcounteronthepropermouldspecially.3.使鞋面後跟中心對準後定型模的中心,再整型.Needbackstitch3-4stitchesonthestart&stopstitchingportion.定型機Backmoldingmachine定型模MoldingmoldAppliedTooling:8.貼中底

ATTACHINSOLE1,左手拿楦頭,右手拿中底,將中底中心點對準楦頭中心點,從後跟往前貼.Thelefthandholdthelasttomake

upthebottom,andtherighthandholdtheinsoletomakethecentermatchthelast,thenattachtheinsoleonlastfromheeltofront.

2.確保中底弧度與楦頭弧度相吻合.Makesuretheinsolefitwithlast.9.鞋面余皮刷膠

CEMENTTHETOELASTALLOWANCE1.通常對於一次流程的鞋面,均用白水膠刷鞋面余皮.對於多次流程的鞋面,均用PU膠刷鞋面余皮.Commonlyfortheshoethatonlyneedbelastedonetime,cementthelastallowancewithlatex.Fortheshoethatneedbelastedmorethanone,cementthelastallowancewithPUglue.2,左手拿鞋面,右手拿刷子.刷鞋面頭莊余皮10mm寬.Thelefthandholdtheupper,andtherighthandholdthebrush,cementthetoelastallowancewithwidth10mm.3,刷膠要到位,均勻,但不能刷太高也不能溢膠.刷膠後放入流水線,送進烘箱.Cementingshouldbecomplete&evenbutnottoohighorcomeout.Putitontheconveyerbeltthroughtheovenaftercementing.4,烘箱溫度設為80度,時間2分鐘.Adjustthetemperature80&time2minofoven.

5,過此烘箱的目的,使鞋面余皮的膠水干一些.MaketheglueforthelastingallowancedrythroughtheovenAppliedTooling:刷子Brush膠壺Gluepot鞋面結幫余皮刷膠過烘箱10.鞋頭頭軟化SOFTENTOPPORTION1.調(diào)整鞋鞋頭軟化模模的溫度150-200度,時間8-10”.Adjustthetemperatureto150-200andtime8-10”ofmoldforsofteningtheupper.2.一般足足球鞋或鞋鞋面皮料較較硬的鞋面面需經(jīng)過此此流程軟化化,以免結結幫後鞋面面花角.Commonlyforthefootballshoeortheshoethatupperleatheristoosoft,bothneedthroughthisproceduretoavoidwrinkleafterlast.AppliedTooling:軟化機Softenmachine11.前接接幫

TOELASTINGAppliedTooling:1.設定正正確的前幫幫機使用參參數(shù),壓頭頭壓力:35kg.壓著時間間:5秒,掃刀溫度度:室內(nèi)自自然溫度.Setcorrectparameterforthetoelastingmachine:Pressure:35kg,time:5sec,temperatureofwiperastheindoor’s.2.前抓的的排放要與與楦頭弧度度相吻合.Theshapeofclawshouldfitthelast.3.前幫時時,中心點點要對正,前爪要抓抓齊印刷線線(點),余皮按印印刷線作業(yè)業(yè).Duringtoelasting,makesurethecentermatchthelast&theclawofmachinealignthemarkingforlasting.Makesuretheallowancefollowtheprintingline.4.結幫幫後,頭頭莊高度度要一致致.Makesurethetoeheightconsistent.前幫機Toelastingmachine12.插插鞋叉,緊鞋帶帶INSERTSPACER&TIGHTSHOELACE1.插鞋鞋叉,平平齊鞋舌舌上沿.再緊鞋鞋帶.Insertthespacerbetweenthetongue&laceandmakethetopedgealignthetongue’s.Thentightentheshoelace.2.緊鞋鞋帶後,用量版版比對助助帶口寬寬度是否否正確.Checkifthewidthofeyeletstayiscorrectwithgaugeboard.13.拉拉腰幫SIDELASTINGAppliedTooling:1.拉腰邦余余皮需平平齊中底底印刷線線.Sidelastingmustfollowtheprintinglineontheinsole.2.結幫幫后內(nèi)﹐﹐內(nèi)外腰腰須緊貼貼楦頭﹐﹐余皮平平順且均均勻。Aftertheallowancemustbesmooth&uppermustfitthelastonthemedial&lateralportion.鳥嘴鉗Pincer腰幫機Sidelastingmachine1,設定定后幫機器器正確參參數(shù),壓壓力35公斤,時間:5秒,掃刀溫溫度:室室內(nèi)自然然溫度.Settheproperparameterofheellastingmachinewithpressure35kilo,time5secandtemperatureastheindoor’s.2.依訂單楦楦頭及後後跟定型型模更換換掃刀(圓角楦楦頭用圓圓掃刀).Changetotheproperwiperofheellastingmachineasperthecorrectlast&heelmoldingmold.(Forroundanglelast,usetheroundshapewiper.3.壓完完后幫后后須對比比后跟高高度:相相同號碼碼之后跟跟高度要要一致.Needchecktheheelheighttomakesureit’’sconsistenceforonepairafterpressing.4.配雙雙放入流流水帶,進入下下一流程程.Pairandputitontheconveyerbelttoprocessthenextprocedure.AppliedTooling:後幫機Heellastingmachine14.壓壓後幫PRESSHEELLASTING鳥嘴鉗Pincers壓後幫對比後跟跟高度15.磨磨景ROUGHING1,在磨景機機上裝上上正確的的砂帶﹐﹐一般用用40#-60#的,將余皮皮折縐磨磨平。Settheproperemerytapeonthegrindingmachine,commonly40#-60#.Roughthetoelastingallowanceflatonthewrinkleportion.2,磨平后余余留的粉粉屑﹐須須運用吹吹風槍吹吹干淨.Blowthechippingcleanwithblowerafterroughing.3.磨景不可可磨破鞋鞋面﹐不不可有燒燒焦的現(xiàn)現(xiàn)象﹐砂砂帶須定定時更換換.Don’’tbreaktheupper&burnttheupperduringroughing.Theemerytapeneedbechangedontime.AppliedTooling:磨景機Grindingmachine砂輪石Emerywheelstone16.余余皮壓平平PRESSTHELASTINGALLOWANCEFLAT1,選擇擇正確的的鐵板燒.Choosetheproperironplateasthelastconstruction.2,設定定機器參參數(shù),對對反毛皮皮版鞋面面,鐵板板燒溫度度用室內(nèi)內(nèi)溫度,皮料版版溫度80度;壓力均均為35公斤,時間10秒.Settheproperparameterofmachine.Forthesuedeversion,thetemperatureoftheironplateisindoor;Fortheleatherversion,itneed80.Forthebothversion,setthepressure35kilo,time10sec.3,操作作時將套套楦鞋面面放正放放穩(wěn),不不可歪斜斜搖晃.壓平平後放入入流水線線,送進進烘箱.Makethelasteduppermatchthecenterline&staystably,notallowtotwist&roll.Putitontheconveyerbeltthroughoven.4,烘箱箱溫度設設為100度,時間4分鐘.Settheoventemperature100&time4minutes.5,過此此烘箱的的目的,使鞋面面定型.Keeptheuppershapefitthelastthroughtheoven.AppliedTooling:壓平機Pressingmachine鐵板燒Ironplate17.CHECK前後後高度,大底配配雙CHECKTOE&HEELHEIGHTTHENPAIR1,經(jīng)過過加硫之之套楦鞋鞋面,放放於平臺臺上,CHECK其高高度是否否正確,並放入入下一流流程.Checktheheightoflastedupperandpairthenputittothenextprocedure.2.套楦楦鞋面及及大底配配雙標上上流水號號,放入入流水線線上.Thelastedupper&unitsolepairandwritedownthepairnumberthenputtoconveyerbelt.查高度是是否正確確:水解筆hydrolyzepenAppliedTooling:標流水號號18.畫線線GUIDEMARKAppliedTooling:1.設設定壓壓力為為4KG,調(diào)整整放畫畫線模模的水水平度度.Setthepressureto4KG&adjusttheguidemarkinglevel.2.畫線時時先須須標出出鞋頭頭和后后跟中中心點點以利利于大大底鞋鞋面貼貼合時時對正正.Atfirstmakethetoe&heelcenterontheuppertoavoidthecentercomesofflast.3.確確保保畫線線要一一致.Makesurethemarkingconsistent.水解筆筆hydrolyzepen畫線模模Guidingmarkingmold畫線機機Guidingmarkingmachine19.刻磨磨,吹吹灰BUFF&BLOWAppliedTooling:刻磨機機Buffmachine砂輪Emerywheel吸塵機機Dustcollector耳塞Earplug1,選選用正正確的的砂輪輪,進進行刻刻磨,不能能磨破破皮料料,不不可燒燒焦.Usecorrectemerywheeltobuff,anddon’tbreaktheleatherorburnt.2.將將磨好好的套套楦鞋鞋面,放入入吸塵塵箱中中進行行吹灰灰.Putthelastedupperindustcollectortoremovetheflour.20.大底底/鞋鞋面洗洗藥水水O/Sprimer1,大大底藥藥水處處理:PrimerO/S橡膠膠用白白色1016A+1%B粉;雜色色用1016A+2-3%B粉;WhiterubberO/Sprimerwith1016A+1%B;variedcolorrubberdowith1016A+2-3%;EVA需照照光處處理,白色色用UV-11N能能量量0.52J/CM2,黑色色用UV-8N處理理,能能量0.47J/CM2.時間間均為為10-12秒秒.EVAneedtreatwithlight,forwhiteEVAlightwithUV-11Nenergy0.52J/CM2,forblackEVAdowithUV-8Nenergy0.47J/CM2;lighttime10-12secforbothcolor.Shank用用111YCN+2%RFE藥水水處理理PrimerO/S:Whiterubberwith1016A+1%B;variedcolorrubberwith1016A+2-3%B;EVAwithUVlight.PrimerShankswith111YCN+2%RFE.2.反反毛皮皮,面面皮用用UE-9SF+5-7%CL-12處理理,人人造皮皮用111YCN+2%E-1000,網(wǎng)網(wǎng)布不不需藥藥水處處理.PrimerthesuedeandleatherwithUE-9SF+5-7%CL-12,forsyntheticuse111YCN+2%E-1000,formeshnoneedprimer.3.在在處處理理藥藥水水過過程程中中﹐﹐藥藥水水不不可可太太少少或或過過量量﹐﹐不不可可有有外外溢溢現(xiàn)現(xiàn)象象。。處處理理後後Duringprimer,don’’tapplytheprimertoomuchortoolittleorcomeout.4.粘粘藥藥水水的的絲絲瓜瓜布布要要經(jīng)經(jīng)常常更更換換.Thetowelgourdclothsoakedprimerneedbechangedoften.21.過過烘烘箱箱THROUGHOVEN1,鞋鞋面面在在烘烘箱箱下下層層,烘烘箱箱溫溫度度70-80度度;底底部部配配件件在在烘烘箱箱上上層層,烘烘箱箱溫溫度度50-55度度,時時間間均均為為2分分鐘鐘.Putthelastedupperontoplayerofovenandsetthetemperature70-80;Putthebottomonbottomlayerofovenandsettemperature50-55.Heattime2minutesforboth.2.過過此此烘烘箱箱的的目目的的,烘烘干干藥藥水水.Thepurposeistodryafterprimer.22.第第一一次次上上大大底底膠膠O/SFIRSTCEMENT1.鞋鞋面面是是真真皮皮(含含反反毛毛皮皮),不不需需刷刷一一次次膠膠;如如鞋鞋面面是是網(wǎng)網(wǎng)布布或或人人造造皮皮,需需刷刷一一次次膠膠用用116NN+3-5E%-1000.Fortheleatherupperincludingsuede,noneedfirstcement;Forthemesh&syntheticupper,needfirstcementwith116NN+3-5E%-1000glue.2,準準備好好刷子子和膠膠水,膠水水要在在規(guī)定定的時時間內(nèi)內(nèi)用完完,刷刷子每每半小小時更更換一一次,以免免積膠膠.Preparethebrush&glue.Andthegluemustbeusedupinrequestedtime&changethebrusheveryhalfhourtopreventgluefromamassing.3.用用116NN+3-5E%-1000)刷大大底一一次膠膠,刷刷膠要要均勻勻,到到位,不可可溢膠膠.FirstcementO/Swith116NN+3-5E%-1000glue.Cementingshouldbeeven&completeandnotcomeout.4.將將大底底整齊齊地排排放在在輸送送帶上上送入入烘箱箱.PuttheO/Sontheconveyerbeltinorderandintooven.5.鞋鞋面烘烘箱溫溫度70-80度,底部部烘箱箱溫度度50-55度度,時時間4分.Setoventemp70-80forupper&50-55forbottom,heattime4minutes.23.大底底刷二二次膠膠SECCEMENTO/S1,準準備好好刷子子和膠膠水,膠水水要在在規(guī)定定的時時間內(nèi)內(nèi)用完完,刷刷子每每半小小時更更換一一次,以免免積膠膠.Preparethebrush&glue.Andthegluemustbeusedupinrequestedtime&changethebrusheveryhalfhourtopreventgluefromamassing.2.用用NP-580+5-7%CL-12+1%HR-6刷大大底二二次膠膠,刷刷膠要要均勻勻,到到位,不可可溢膠膠.SeccementO/SwithNP––580+5-7%CL-12+1%HR-6.Cementingshouldbeeven&completeandnotcomeout.3.鞋鞋面結結幫余余皮刷刷NP-580+5-7%CL-12+1%HR-6膠膠後,再貼貼上前前掌填填腹,最後後在前前掌填填腹上上刷膠膠.CementthelastingallowancewithNP-580+5-7%CL-12+1%HR-6,thenattachthefillerontheforefoot,atlastcementthefiller.4.將將大底底及刷刷膠後後鞋面面整齊齊地排排放在在輸送送帶上上送入入烘箱箱.PuttheO/S&lastedupperontheconveyerbeltinorderandintooven.5.鞋鞋面烘烘箱溫溫度70-80度,底部部烘箱箱溫度度50-55度度,時時間5分.Setoventemp70-80forupper&50-55forbottom,heattime5minutes.大底二二次刷刷膠鞋面結結幫余余皮刷刷膠貼填腹填腹刷膠24.貼大大底ASSEMBLYO/S&UPPER1,鞋面與大底底從烘箱出出來﹐必須須在30-35秒之之內(nèi)完成貼貼合動作.Takeouttheupper&O/Sfromoven,andneedfinishassemblyin30-35seconds.2.鞋面與與大底貼合合前，先檢檢視鞋面與與大底是否否同一個號號碼Needcheckifthesizeofupper&O/Sconsistent.3.貼合時時先貼合鞋鞋頭中心位位置﹐再貼貼外﹐內(nèi)腰腰部位及后后跟.依照照確認鞋的的相對位置置進行操作作.Firstattachthetoecenterportionthenlateral&medialportion,atlastattachheelportionfollowingtheconfirmationsample.5.不可貼貼高膠線或或外露膠線線。.Themarkingforcementshouldnotbeexposed¬beover.6.貼合動動作完成后后﹐放在鋼鋼板上檢查查大底是否否平穩(wěn)。Needcheckifthefinishedshoeissmoothandflat.1﹐固定鞋鞋頭2﹐固定鞋鞋外腰3﹐固定鞋鞋內(nèi)腰4,固定鞋鞋后跟5,用撬刀刀使大底鞋鞋后跟弧度度圓順6,檢驗大大底平穩(wěn)度度25.用三三合一壓機機及上下壓壓機壓PRESSWITHUNIVERSAL&VERTICALMACHING1,在三合合一壓機上上,裝上相相應的壓底底模.Setupthecorrectpressingmouldontheuniversalpressingmachine.2,設定適適當?shù)膲毫α皦簷C時時間,通常常三合一壓壓機壓力40KG/CM2,時間15秒;上下下壓機壓力力35KG/CM2,時間8-10秒.Adjusttheproperpressure&time.Commonforuniversalpressingmachinepressure:40KG/CM2,time:15seconds;forverticalpressingmachine,pressure:35KG/CM2,time:8-10seconds.3.先用三三合一壓機機壓,再用用上下壓機機壓.Firstpresswithuniversalpressingmachine,thendowithverticalpressingmachine.AppliedTooling:三合一壓機機Universalpressingmachine三合一壓模模Universalmould26.除膠膠&補膠及及畫線CLEANGLUE&MARKLINE1,壓機後後檢查大底底邊牆與鞋鞋面是否有有膠縫,如如有,補膠膠後用工具具將其壓貼貼牢固.Checkifanygapbetweenupper&O/Ssidewall.Ifthereis,repairalittlecementwithinjector,andpressheretomakesurethereisnoanygapbetweenupper&O/Ssidewall.2,用生膠膠片將外溢溢到鞋面上上的膠水擦擦干淨,並並用毛刷粘粘上清水清清洗外露的的畫線.Wipethegluecameovertouppercleanwithcreperubber,andwashoutthemarklinewithbrush&water.3.將鞋子子放入輸送送帶上送入入冷凍箱定定型.冷凍凍箱溫度:0-5度度;時間:8分鐘.Putthefinishedshoeontheconveyerbeltthroughthecooltrunktokeeptheshapeofshoe.Setthecooltrunkwiththetemperature0-5。C,coolingtime:8minutesAppliedTooling:注射射器器Injector毛刷刷Brush清液液Cleanser27.解解松松鞋鞋帶帶/拔拔楦楦LOOSENLACE/DE-LAST1,冷冷凍凍定定型型後後,用用鐵鐵勾勾勾勾松松鞋鞋帶帶.注注意意不不要要勾勾壞壞鞋鞋面面及及鞋鞋帶帶.Aftercooling,makethelaceloosewithironhook.Note:don’’tbreaktheupperandshoelaceduringlooseningthelace.2.依依照照鞋鞋子子的的形形狀狀調(diào)調(diào)整整機機器器.Adjustthemachineaccordingtotheshapeofshoe.3.拔拔楦楦後後,大大底底不不能能扭扭曲曲變變形形,及及不不平平穩(wěn)穩(wěn).需需用用手手輕輕攝攝一一下下後後跟跟使使其其保保持持後後跟跟的的型型狀狀.MakesuretheO/Snottwistandnotrollafterde-last.Inordertokeeptheheelshape,needpresslightlytheheelportion.AppliedTooling:拔楦楦機機De-lastmachine解松松鞋鞋帶帶:拔楦楦:28.清清潔潔鞋鞋面面及及塞塞鞋鞋墊墊PUNCHTHEEYELETHOLE1,清清潔潔時時,要要依依鞋鞋面面的的材材質(zhì)質(zhì)選選擇擇清清洗洗潔潔.除除去去鞋鞋面面及及底底部部的的膠膠水水用用生生膠膠片片.Chosetheproperliq