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愛荷華的圣誕節(jié)保羅-恩waysdid.Buttheyweresleighbells,notchurchbells,forwelivedinapartofCedarrsesashedroveuptoourhorse-headedhitchingpostwiththebobsledthatwould3takwouldbringtheteamdownFifthAvenueatasmarttrot,flickinghiswhipoverthehhoseradiancethrewbackabrilliancelikethesoundofbells.(Myfatherdrovethehorsestomovequicklydowntheroads,hittingtheirhindpartwithalight,quickblowwithhiswhip.Thebellsrangevenmorelightlyandquicklyoverthesnow,whichinturnthrewbackagreatbrightnessthatwaslikethesoundofbells.)家有一個(gè)馬頭形的拴馬樁,父親會(huì)把馬兒們趕到拴馬樁那兒把大雪橇套在馬身上,帶著我們到0英里以外的鄉(xiāng)下農(nóng)場(chǎng)去慶祝圣誕節(jié)。當(dāng)父親駕著馬車輕快地Therearenosuchdeparturesanymore:thewholefamilypilingintothebobsledwithmpingthesoftsnow,andateverymotionoftheirhoofsthebellsjingling,jingling.Myfathersattherewiththereinsfirmlyheld,wearingalongcoatmadefromthehideofntaviewoftheirlatefriendappearingasawarmovercoatonthebackofthemanwhoputtheironbitintheirmouths(.Iwaspuzzledasan8-year-oldboyoverthehorses’indifferencetowardstheirdeadfriend,whosehidehadnowturnedintomyfather’sovercoatwhichcamefromtheirrecentlydiedfriendandthemanwhoputa8見著它們剛剛故去的朋友變成了把銜鐵塞在它們嘴里的人身上溫暖的大衣而熟視無(wú)睹,毫無(wú)反應(yīng)。Therearenostreetslikethoseanymore:thesnowsensiblyleftontheroadfortheeofsleighsandeasytravel.Wecouldhopoilandridetheheavyrunnersastheymadetheirhissing,tearing soundoverthepackedsnow.Andalongthestreetswemetotherhorses,sothatwemovedfrom onesetofbellstoanother,fromthetinytinkleoftheindividualbellsontheshaftstothesilvery,leapingsoundofthelongstrandshungTherewouldbeanoccasionalbrass-mountedautomobilelaboringonitsnarrowtiresandasoftenasnotpulleduptheslipperyhillsbyahorse,andwewouldpassitwithatriumphantshoutforanawkwardnuisancewhichwasobviouslynotheretostay.(Occasionallyonourway,wewouldmeetacarmovingslowlyandcarefullyoverthepackedsnow.Ithaddifficultyclimbinguphills,whichwewsliiperywithsnow,soitwasoftenpulledupbyahorse.Whenwepassedbyquicklyonoursleigh,wewouldshoutloudlywithasenseofuhtowardsthem,whichwereobviousclumsyoutofplace,makingtroubleontheroad.Thecountryroadranthroughalandscapeoflittlehillsandshallowvalleysandheavygrovesoftimber,includingoneofgreattoweringblackwalnuttreeswhichwereallcutdownayearlatertobemadeintogunstocksfortheFirstWorldWar.Thegreatmomentwaswhenwelefttheroadanddpegene.tnhswewswewsdnerefeey,dIdotdkenoesssfnndd.yrdnneftmsydresannel.4Nearthelowhouseonthehill,withoaksononesideandappletreesontheother,myfatherwouldstandup,flourishhiswhip,andbringthebobsledrightuptothedoorofthehousewithaburstofspeed.風(fēng)馳電掣般的速度把雪橇駛到房門口停下。Therearenosucharrivalsanymore:theharnessbellsringingandclashinglikefarawaysteeples,thehorseswhinnyingatthehorsesinthebarnandreceivingagreat,trumpetingwhinnyinreply,thedogsleapingintothebobsledandburrowingunderthebufhorses,boyandgirlcousinshowlingaroundthebobsled,andthedescentintothesnowwiththeChristmasbasketcarriedbymy如今再也沒有那樣的到達(dá)時(shí)的熱鬧景象了:車轅上的鈴鐺清脆響亮,就像遠(yuǎn)處馬廄里的馬兒們也以熱烈響eyrdswtoe,emwsddntoe,oedwhsdnae.twrrfabnsawyx,hdwmdyeelfeaenn:eytfyswgadsd;snergr,wg; filledwithanimals,itwasalsowarm.Pigswereutteringdeep,gloomy,andsonoroussounds...)milkcattlestillnuzzlingthemangerforwispsofhay;horseseyeingthenewcomersandrollingtheirdeep,ovaleyeswhite;oats,hay,andstrawtangystillwiththeliveAugustsunlight;themanuresteaming;thesharpodorofleatherharnessrubbedwithneat’s-footoiltokeepitsupple;themolasses-sweetodorofensilageinthesilowherethefodderwasalmostfermenting.Itisasmellfromstrongandlivingthings,anddhewouldstandthere,breathingdeeply,onehandonahorse’srump,watchingthesteamcomeoutfromundertheblanketsastheteamcooleddownfromtheirrapidtrotupthelane.Itgavehimabetterappetite,heargued,thanplainfreshair,whichwasthinandhadnobodytoit.(Withsomuchcontentandlifeinit,therichodorofthehim,wasweakandlackofsubstance.)的動(dòng)物糞便的氣味以及為了使皮革馬具柔軟而用牛腳油摩擦皮革散發(fā)出的濃烈eoriginaleventhappened,andthatsamesmellwasthefirstairthattheChristChildb第一口空氣就是這種味道。Bythetimewereachedthehouse,mymotherandsisterswerewearingapronsandbusyinginthekitchen,asred-facedasthewomenwhohadbeenthereallmorning.Thekitchenwasthebiggestroominthehouseandallfamilylifesavesleepingwentonthere.Myuncleevenhadacouchalongonewallwherehenappedandwherethechildrenlaywhentheywereill.ThekitchenrangewasatremendousblackandgleamingonecalledaSmokeEater,withpansbubblingovertheholesabovethefireboxandareservoirofhotwaterattheside,linedwithdullcopper,fromwhichmyunclewoulddipabasinofwaterandshaveabovethesink,turninghislatheredfacenowandthentodroparemarkintothewomen’stalk,wavinghisstraightedgedrazorasifitwereathreattomakethembelievehim.Myjobwastogotothewoodpileoutbackandkeepthefireburning,splittingthechunksofoakandhickory,watchinghowcleanlytheaxwentthroughthetoughwood.。灶臺(tái)上大大小小的鍋在火箱上的灶眼里燃燒,柴火不夠時(shí)還要揮舞利刃把堅(jiān)硬的橡木和山胡桃木劈成可以燒火的木塊兒。ItwasahandmadeChristmas.Thetreecamefromdowninthegrove,andonitmanypaperornamentsmadebymycousins,aswellasbeautifulonesbroughtfromthcornplantedonthesunnyslopebythewatermelons,paperhornswithhomemadecanorfancycrocheted“yokes”fornightgowns,tattedcollarsforblouses,doilieswithfancyflowerpatternsfortables,tidiesforchairs,andonceIreceivedabrilliantlypolishedcowhornwithacavalrymancrudelybutbravelycarvedonit.Andtherewouldusuallybeacornhuskdoll,perhapswithapruneorwalnutforaface,andagaydressofanoldcorset-coverscrapwithitsribbonsstillbright.Andtherewererealcandlesburningwithrealflames,everyguestsniffingtheairforthesmellofscorchingpineneedles.Noelectricallylittreehasthewarmandprimitivepresenceofatreewithacrownoflivingfiresoverit,suggestingwhatevertrueflameJosephmayhavekindledonthatoriginalcoldnight.那真是自給自足的圣誕節(jié):圣誕樹是從小山下的叢林里看來(lái)的,掛在上面的有一Therearenodinnerslikethatanymore:everyitemfromthefarmitself,withnofreezer,nocarfordrivingintotownforpackagedfood.Thepieshadbeenbakedthedaybefore,pumpkin, apple,andmince;asweatethem,wecouldlookoutthewindowandseethecornfieldwherethe pumpkinsgrew,thetreesfromwhichtheappleswerepicked.Therewascottagecheese,withthedrippingbagsofcurdsstillhangingfromthecoldcellarceiling.Thebreadhadbeenbakedthatmorning,heatinguptheovenforthemeat,andasmyaunthurriedIcouldsmellinherapronthatfreshestofallodorswithwhichhumannoseishonored--breadstraightfromtheoven.(Asshepassedby,Icouldsmellthemostdelightfulsmellofallsmells--thatofthefreshlybakedbreadjustoutoftheoven.)TherewouldbeahugebrowncrockofbeanswithsmokedporkfromthehogbutcheredeveryNovember.Wecouldsee,beyondthecrock,thebroadblackironkettleinacornerofthebarnyard,turnedupsidedown,theinnocenthogsstoppingtoscatchonit.1如今再也沒有那樣的圣誕晚餐了:沒有冷凍冰箱,沒有汽車開進(jìn)城里去購(gòu)買煙熏豬肉1月屠宰的豬。越過(guò)大瓦罐兒,我們能看到場(chǎng)院角落里倒扣著的一口大黑鐵鍋,無(wú)辜的豬兒們停在那里蹭癢兒。cellarceiling.Thebreadhadbeenbakedthatmorning,heatinguptheovenforthemeat,andasmyaunthurriedbyIcouldsmellinherapronthatfreshestofallodorswithwhichthehumannoseishonored—breadstraightfromtheoven.TherewouldbeahugebrowncrockofbeanswithsmokedporkfromthehogbutcheredeveryNovember.Wecouldsee,beyondthecrock,thebroadblackironkettleinacornerofthebarnyard,turnedupsidedown,theinnocenthogsstoppingtoscratchon總會(huì)有各種各樣的蜜餞水果和泡菜:有采自小樹叢中葡萄樹上的野葡萄,有炎熱的9月下午吃的西瓜皮腌制的泡菜。Cutintotheslopeofthehillbehindthehouse,withalittledoorofitsown,wasthevegetablecellar,fromwhichcamecarrots,turnips,cabbages,potatoes,squash,Sometimesmyscaredcousinsweresentthereforpunishment,tositindarknessandmeditateonntheirsins;butneveronChristmasDay.Fordaysaftersuchanordealtheycouldnotendurebitingintoacarrot.(Whilebeingkeptinsidethevegetablecellar,sittingindarknessandthinkingabttheirwrongdoings,theywouldhelpthemselvestothecarrotsstoredthere.Theyhadeatensomanythatevenseveraldaysafterthat,they3當(dāng)然還有撒著一粒粒葛縷子粒的傳統(tǒng)泡菜。我記得有一個(gè)圣誕節(jié),當(dāng)?shù)叵率依镉靡粔K兒石頭壓著蓋著蓋子的裝有0得石頭砸到客廳下面的地板時(shí),叔叔大聲叫道:我的天,鋼琴?gòu)牡匕迳系粝氯ァ盇llthemeatwasfromthehomeplacetoo.Mostusefulofall,thegoos—theveryoneofcoughingchildren.Weate,slepton,andworethatgoose.所有的肉類也是家產(chǎn)的。其中最有用的莫過(guò)于鵝肉了,那只鵝正是那年夏天穿鵝毛。ovenjust,forhim,alwaysreferredtobythehurryingladieshehadjerkedhishead.Itwasnotmanyyearsbefore usknivesandgunsbecausehehadnochildrenofhisown.作為一個(gè)小孩子,有一位來(lái)自離家最近的有鐵路的鎮(zhèn)子的遠(yuǎn)房叔叔是一件令本叔叔一個(gè)文雅而生性靦腆的矮個(gè)子男人,經(jīng)常送給我們玩具刀和手槍,因?yàn)樗约簺]有孩子。當(dāng)然配菜也同樣來(lái)自于農(nóng)場(chǎng):山胡桃仁蛋糕用的是第一場(chǎng)霜降后從小樹林里仁。wereasuspiciouscharacteroutoftheCivilWar.18廚房的窗外便是果園,果園里長(zhǎng)著各種蘋果樹:“富裕果”、“赤褐果”、“狼果”snac9荷蘭面包,用介于做面包和蛋糕之間的面團(tuán)做成的面食,里面塞滿了香櫞和各式各樣”,我們把同樣的黃油(含有最高的乳脂含量Toeatinthesameroomwherefoodiscooked—thatisthewaytothanktheLordHisabundance.Thelongtable,withitsdifferentlevelswhereadditionshadbeen madeforthesmallfry,ranthelengthofthekitchen.Theairwasheavywithodorsnotonlyoffoodonplatesbutoftheactofcookingitself,alongwiththemetallicsmellofheatedironfromthehard-workingSmokeEater,andthewholestoveofferedusitsyetsofmoregooseanduntouched Toseethegibletmadeandpouredintoagravyboat,whichhadpaintedonitssideswinterscenesboysslidinganddeerboundingoversnow,isthesurestwaytoovereatitsswimming0在食物烹調(diào)出來(lái)的同一個(gè)房間里品嘗它們,這正是感謝主如此豐盛的恩賜的最好方式。廚房里的那張長(zhǎng)桌子由于為小孩子們不斷增加一些高低不等的桌面,空氣中濃香四溢灶臺(tái)上一直不停燒烤著的金屬發(fā)出的味道。整個(gè)爐子給我們提供著更多的上桌的烤鵝和餡ThewarningforChristmasdinnerwasalwaysanordertogotothemilkhouseforcream,whereweskimmedfromthecoolingpansoffreshmilkthecreamwhichhadthesamegoldencolorastheflanksoftheJerseycowswhichhadgivenit.Thelastdeedbeforeeatingwasgrindingthecoffeebeansinthelittlemill,addingthatexoticodortothemorenativeonesofgooseandspicedpumpkinpie.Thenallwouldsitatthetableandmyunclewouldaskthegrace,sometimesinGerman,butlater,forthebenefitofusignorantchildren,inEnglish:Come,LordJesus,beourguest,Sharethisfoodthatyouhaveblessed.當(dāng)孩子們被派往牛奶房去取奶油時(shí),就知道晚餐要開始了。我們把出自澤西Therearenoblessingslikethatanymore:everyscrapoffoodforwhichmyunclehadHimtomakeholywastheplainsubstancethatanIowafarmcouldproduceinan averageyearwithdecentrainfallandproperplowingandmanure.22如今再也沒有那樣的祈福了:叔叔敬獻(xiàn)給上帝、請(qǐng)他賜福的所有食物都出自ThefirstactofdedicationonsuchaChristmaswastotheoccasionwhichhadbegunit,thankstotheChildofapastoralcouplewhonodoubtknewagooddealaboutrainfallandgrassandthefatteningofanimals.Thesecondactofdedicationwastotheceremonyofeating.Myauntkeptaturmoiloffoodcirculating,andtorefuseanyofitbecausevariousfoodswerekeptgoingbymyaunt.ItwouldbeinappropriatetotheWeweretherenotonlytocelebrateafortunateeventformankind,butalsotorecognizethatsufferingisthe naturallotofmen—andtoconsumethelengthandbreadthletouthisbelt—afancyWesternbeltwithsteerheadsandsilverbuckle-withasnapandasigh.Thewomenmanagedbetterbyalwaysgettingupfromthetableandtrottingcold.mensattheregrimlyenduringthegloryoftheirappetites.(Withasternandseriousexpressionontheirfaces,themensattheresufferingfromeatingtothrfullcapacityof3在這樣的圣誕節(jié)第一個(gè)要感謝的是使這個(gè)節(jié)日產(chǎn)生的那個(gè)圣誕之夜,感謝那
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