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TheColdestPlaceOnEarth簡介當今,南極有一座房子,叫阿蒙森—斯科特南極站。室內(nèi)暖融融的,無論夏冬,人們都可以在那兒生活、工作。飛機毫不費力地便能飛抵或是飛離南極站。從這兒到世界其它地方,要不了多少小時。但是從南極站出來走上500米,那兒的南極洲便再次成為地球上最寒冷、最空曠的地區(qū)。在1911年,當時的南極既沒見過飛機也沒建有住房。除了茫茫大雪、冰封天地與凜凜寒風外,一無所有。沒有英國國旗,沒有挪威國旗。但是,有幾個人緩慢地向南走著,橫穿冰封大地。斯科特率領(lǐng)的人配備了小馬,而阿蒙森率領(lǐng)的人配備了狗與滑雪板。當時的溫度為-30℃或者更糟。這些人忍受著疲倦、饑餓和寒冷……他們中誰將是到達南極的目前,在阿蒙森—斯科特南極站內(nèi),墻上寫著一些字,是斯科特隊長于1912年寫在日記里的一句話:“天啊,這地方太可怕了!”本文的作者蒂姆·維卡里是經(jīng)驗豐富的教師和作家。他現(xiàn)今在英國北部的約克生活工。Chapter1TwoShipsChapter1TwoShipsTheracebeganinthesummerof1910.Thamestothesea.Thousandsofpeoplestoodbytherivertowatchit.Theywereallexcitedandhappy.OntheTerraNova,CaptainRobertFalconScottsmiledquietly.Itwasaveryimportantdayforhim.Hewasastrongman,notverytall,intheblueclothesofacaptain.Hewasforty-oneyearsold,buthehadayoungface,likeaboy.Hiseyesweredarkandquiet.Onemanontheship,TitusOates,smiledatScott.'Whatanexcitingday,Captain!'hesaid.'Lookatthosepeople!Ifeellikeanimportantman!'Scottlaughed.'Youareimportant,Titus,'hesaid.'Andyou'regoingtobefamous,too.Weallare.Doyouseethisflag?'HelookedatthebigBritishflagatthe第1頁共28頁 backoftheship,andsmiledatOates.'Thatflagiscomingwithus,'hesaid.'IntheAntarctic,I'mgoingtocarryitundermyclothes.We'regoingtobethefirstmenattheSouthPole,andthatflagisgoingtobefirst,too!'*****Fivedayslater,onJune6th,amanopenedthedoorofhiswoodenhouseinNorway.Hewasatallman,withalongface.Hewaitedoutsidethehouseforaminute.Everythingwasveryquiet.Hecouldseenohouses,onlymountains,trees,andwa-ter.Itwasnearlydark.Theskywasblackoverthemountains.Themansmiled,andwalkedquicklyawayfromthehouse,downtothesea.Inthewater,abigwoodenshipwaitedforhim.Themangotontotheship,andtalkedandlaughedquietlywithhisfriends.Theship'snamewasFram,andthemanwasRoaldAmundsen.TheFramwasthemostbeautifulshiponearth,Amundsenthought.Hisfriendswerethebestskiersonearth,too.Oneofthem,OlavBjaaland,smiledathim.'NorthPole,herewecome,Captain,'hesaid.'Yes.'Amundsensaid.Hisfriendscouldnotseehisfaceinthedark.'FramisgoingtotheArctic.'EveryoneontheFramwasreadytogototheNorthPole,totheArctic.Amundsenwantedtogothere,too.Butfirsthewantedtogosouth.Hisfriendsdidn'tknowthat.AtmidnightonJune6th,theFrammovedquietlyawayfromAmundsen'shouse,outtosea.兩艘船6月1日,倫敦。特若·諾瓦號這艘黑船順泰晤士河而下,向大海駛?cè)?。成千上萬的人佇立岸邊觀望,所有的人臉上都露出興奮與幸福。特若·諾瓦號上,隊長羅伯特·福爾康·斯科特無聲地笑了。這一天對他來說太重要了。他個頭不高,但長得壯實,穿著藍色的隊長制服。他雖說已經(jīng)41歲,但是由于長著一張娃娃臉,所以看上去仍像個小孩。他雙眼烏黑而又沉靜。泰特斯·奧茨,船上的一位水手,沖著隊長笑了?!岸嗝戳钊伺d奮的日子啊,隊長!”他說,“看看這些人!我覺得自己好似成為重要人物了!”第2頁共28頁 天在南極洲,我將把它夾在衣服里面帶著。我們將成為首批到達南極的人,那面國旗也將是第一面到達南極的旗幟。”*****開了自己的木房子的門。這人高個、長臉。他有住房,只有群山、樹林和大海。天近傍晚,群山上面是黑沉沉的一片天空。這船叫弗雷門號,這人便是羅阿爾·阿蒙森。阿蒙森認為,弗雷門號是地球上最美麗他的朋友是地球上最優(yōu)秀的滑雪者。其中有位朋友叫奧拉夫·比阿蘭德,正沖著他微駛向北極?!备ダ组T號上的每個人全都準備就緒:到北極圈,上北極。阿蒙森也想去那兒。然而他第一想做的事,便是向南航行。他的朋友卻毫不知情。6月6日午夜,弗雷門號無聲地駛離阿蒙森的家園,駛向大海。Chapter2TheRaceChapter2TheRaceTheFramwenttoanislandinthesouthofNorway.Itwasaverylittleisland,withonlyonesmallwoodenhouse,twotrees—andnearlyahundreddogs.'Lookatthat!'Bjaalandsaid.'It'sanislandofdogs!Therearedogsinthewater,nearthetrees,onthehouse—dogseverywhere!'Twomencameoutofthehouse.'Hassel!Lindstrom!'Amundsensaid.'It'sgoodtoseeyou!Howmanydogsdoyouhaveforme?''Ninety-nine,Roald,'saidHassel.'Thebestninety-ninedogsfromGreenland.Andthey'reveryhappy!Theydon'twork;theyjusteatandplayallday!They'rehavingawon-derfulsummerhere!''Good,good.'Amundsenlaughed.'Butthat'sfinishednow.Hey,Bjaaland!第3頁共28頁 Stoplaughing—comedownhereandhelpme.Let'sgetallthesedogsontotheship!'Itwasnoteasy.Thedogswerefatandstrong,andtheydidn'twanttogoontheship.Butatlast,afterthreehours'hardwork,allninety-ninewereontheship,andtheFramwentouttoseaagain.Themenwerenothappy.Theweatherwasbad,thedogsweredirty,andsomeofthemenwereill.Theybegantoaskquestions.'Whyarewebringingdogswitnus?'askedoneman,Jo-hansen.'We'regoingthousandsofkilometressouth,pastCapeHorn,andthennorthtoAlaska.Whynotwait,andgetdogsinAlaska?''Don'taskme,'saidhisfriend,HelmerHanssen,'Idon'tunderstandit.'mundsencalledeveryonetothebackoftheship.Hestoodquietlyandlookedatthem.Behindhimwasabigmap.ItwasnotamapoftheArctic.ItwasamapofAntarctica.BjaalandlookedatHelmerHanssen,andlaughed.ThenAmundsenbegantospeak.'Boys,'hesaid.'Iknowyouareunhappy.Youoftenaskmedifficultquestions,andIdon'tanswer.Well,I'mgoingtoan-swerallthosequestionsodayWebegantoworkforthisjourneytwoyearsago.Then,wewantedtobethefirstmenattheNorthPole.Butlastyear,Peary,anAmerican,foundtheNorthPole.SoAmericawasfirsttotheNorthPole,notNorway.We'regoingthere,butwe'retoolate.''Idon'tunderstandthis,'Bjaalandthought.'WhyisAmundsentalkingabouttheNorthPole,withamapofAntarcticabehindhim?'Amundsenstoppedforaminute,andlookedatallthemenslowly.Noonesaidanything.'WehavetogoalongwaysouthbeforewegettoAlaska,'hesaid.'VerynearAntarctica,youknow.AndCaptainScott,theEnglishman,isgoingtotheSouthPolethisyear.HewantstoputhisBritishflagthere.AnAmericanflagattheNorthPole,aBritishflagattheSouthPole.'Bjaalandbegantounderstand.Hestartedtosmileandcouldn'tstop.Hewaswarmandexcited.'Well,boys,'Amundsensaidslowly.'DowewanttheBritishtoputtheirflagattheSouthPolefirst?Howfastcanwetravel?Wehavealotofdogs,andsomeofthemost第4頁共28頁 won-derfulskiersonearth—BjaalandhereisthebestinNorway!SoIhaveanidea,boys.Let'sgototheSouthPole,andputtheNorwegianflagtherebeforetheBritish!Whatdoyousay?'Foraminuteortwoitwasveryquiet.Amundsenwaited,andthemenwatchedhimandthought.ThenBjaalandlaughed.'Yes!'hesaid.'Whynot?It'saskirace,isn'tit,andtheEnglishcan'tski!It'sawonderfulidea,ofcourse!Let'sgo!'2比賽弗雷門號抵達挪威南部的一個小島。該島很小,僅有一間小木屋,兩棵樹,還有將處都有狗!”你們給我養(yǎng)了多少條狗?”干,整天好吃好玩!它們正在這兒歡度夏天呢!”“好,好,”阿蒙森朗聲笑了,“但是現(xiàn)在這一切全結(jié)束了。喂,比阿蘭德!別笑啦,下船來這兒,幫幫我,把這些狗全弄到船上去!”條狗全船上的人員高興不起來:氣候惡劣,狗群骯臟,而且有人病倒了。于是,他們便開始提出種種問題?!拔覀?yōu)槭裁匆獛н@些狗?”有人提問說,他叫約翰森?!拔覀兗磳⒛闲泻脦浊Ч?,穿越合恩角,然后向北,到阿拉斯加。為什么不等等,等到阿拉斯加后再弄狗?”“別問我,”他的朋友赫爾默·漢森說,“我也搞不懂?!眻D,而是南極洲地圖。比阿蘭德看著赫爾默·漢森,笑出聲來。這時,阿蒙森開始講話?!盎镉媯?,”他說,“我知道你們心中不滿。你們經(jīng)常問我一些難題,我都沒有回答。好吧,今天我當即解答所有的問題?!钡?頁共28頁 在正要去那兒,但為時過晚了?!薄拔衣牪欢@些話,”比阿蘭德心想,“阿蒙森身后掛著南極洲地圖,為什么卻大談北極呢?”阿蒙森稍作停頓,緩緩地看著全體人員。這時沒有任何人多嘴。英國人斯科特隊長今年正趕往南極。他想將英國國旗插在那兒。美國國旗已經(jīng)插上了北極,而英國國旗正插向南極?!薄昂冒?,伙計們,”阿蒙森緩緩地說,“眼睜睜地看著英國人將他們的旗幟首先插上南極,我們能同意嗎?我們的前行速度非常之快,不是嗎?我們不僅帶著許多狗,而且擁有地球上最杰出的滑雪能手:我們這兒的比阿蘭德便是全挪威最優(yōu)秀的!所以,我有何看法?”,出聲?!皩?!”他說,“為什么不呢?這是場滑雪比賽,難道不是嗎?再說,英國人不會滑雪!這主意絕妙之極!咱們就去那兒!”Chapter3ThePoniesChapter3ThePoniesOnOctober27th,theTerraNovaarrivedinWellington,NewZealand.WhenScottcameofftheship,anewspa-permanwalkeduptohim.'CaptainScott!CaptainScott!CanItalktoyou,please!'hesaid.Scottstoppedandsmiled.'Yes,ofcourse,'hesaid.'Whatdoyouwanttoknow?''Areyougoingtowin?'themanasked.'Win?'Scottasked.'Winwhat?''WintheracetotheSouthPole,ofcourse,'thenewspapermansaid.'It'saracebetweenyouandAmundsen,now.Lookatthis!'HegaveanewspapertoScott.Scottlookedatit.Itsaid:Scott'sfacewentwhite.'Givemethat!'hesaid.Hetookthenewspaperandreaditcarefully.ThenewspapermanwatchedTellmethat!'第6頁共28頁 Scottlookedathimangrily.'Thisisstupid!'hesaid.'It'snotarace!IcameheretolearnabouttheAntarctic—I'mnotinterestedinAmundsen,orinraces!'Thenhewalkedbackon-tohisship,withthenewspaperinhishand.Laterthatday,hetalkedtohismen.Hegavethemthenewspaper,andlaughed.'Itdoesn'tmatter,'hesaid.'We'reinfrontofAmundsen,andwehavemoremen,andmoremoney.Hehasonlyeightmen,andalotofdogs.Iknowaboutdogs—theydon'tworkintheAntarctic.Wehavesixteenmenandthenewmotorsledges—theyaremuchbetter.Andtomorrowtheponiesarecoming.Weneedponies,motorsledges,andgoodstrongBritishmen—that'sall.ForgetaboutAmundsen!He'snotimportant!'ScottaskedOatestolookaftertheponies,buthedidnotletOatesbuythem.WhenOatesfirstsawtheponies,inNewZealand,hewasveryunhappy.Mostoftheponieswereold,andsomeofthemwereill.'They'rebeautifulponies,Titus,'Scottsaid.'TheycomefromChina—they'rewonderfulponies!'Oateslookedatthemangrily,andsaidnothing.Thenheasked:'Whereistheirfood,Captain?''Here!'Scottopenedadoor.Oateslookedinside.Hethoughtforaminute.'Weneedmorefoodthanthis,CaptainScott!Theseponiesaregoingtoworkinthecoldestplaceonearth—theyneedalotoffood—morethanthis!'Scottsmiledquietly.'Wecan'ttakemorefoodonthisship,Titus.Wherecanweputit?Butitdoesn'tmatter,oldboy.They'reverystrongponies,youknow.Thebestponiesonearth.'Laterthatnight,Oateswrotealettertohismother.TherearenineteenponiesontheTerraNovanow,hewrote.Allthepeniesareinasmallroomatthefrontoftheship.Weeatourfoodintheroomundertheponies,soourtableisoftenwetanddirty.Scottmakesalotofmistakes,Ithink,andAntarc-ticaisaverydangerousplace.3小馬10月27日,特若·諾瓦號船抵達新西蘭的惠靈頓。當斯科特走下船時,一位報社記者迎面走來。你想知道什么?”“你們會是贏家嗎?”那人問。第7頁共28頁 “當然是贏得前往南極的競賽?!眻笊缬浾哒f?!艾F(xiàn)在這個競賽在你與阿蒙森之間展弗雷門號正與斯科特爭先到達南極“我們將贏得比賽!”斯科特臉色變得蒼白?!敖o我報紙!”他說。他拿過報紙認真閱讀。記者觀察著他,期待著?!澳敲?,斯科特隊長,”他最終開口了,“誰將贏得這場比賽?請告訴我!”憤怒地看著他?!罢媸怯薮?!”他說,“這不是比賽!我來這兒是為了了解當天晚些時候,他對同行人員講起這事,將報紙遞給他們,并且大笑起來?!皼]關(guān)系,”他說,“我們現(xiàn)今還在阿蒙森前面。我們不僅人數(shù)占優(yōu)勢,而且錢也要小馬、機動雪橇以及身強力壯的英國人!這些就夠了。忘了那個阿蒙森!他并不重要!”斯科特分配奧茨喂養(yǎng)小馬,但不讓他負責買馬。在新西蘭,奧茨一見到這些小馬,便大為光火。這些小馬大部分都已老態(tài)畢呈,有些還是病馬?!斑@些都是漂亮的小馬,泰特斯,”斯科特說,“純中國貨,匹匹都極為出色!”奧茨惱火地看著這些小馬,沒有說什么。隨即他問:“隊長,它們的飼料在哪“這兒!”斯科特打開一道門。奧茨朝里看了看,思索了一會兒?!拔覀冃枰囡暳?,斯科特隊長!這些小馬將在地球上最冷的地區(qū)干活兒:它們需要許多飼料,遠不止這些!”么關(guān)系,老兄。你看見了,這些馬十分壯實,是地球上最好的小馬?!蹦翘焐钜?,奧茨給他母親寫了封信。信是這樣寫的:特若·諾瓦號船上現(xiàn)在有19匹小馬,所有小馬都養(yǎng)在船首的小艙里。我們進餐的地方正好位于裝運小馬的船艙下面。所以我們的餐桌經(jīng)常濕漉漉、臟兮兮的。我認為,斯科特犯了許多錯誤。南極洲其實是非常危險的地方。Chapter4FoodDepotsChapter4FoodDepotsThetwoships,TerraNovaandfram,arrivedinAntarctica,inJanuary1911,at第8頁共28頁 theendofsummer.TheEnglishmenandtheNorwegianswantedtostayontheiceallwinter.TheywantedtobereadytogototheSouthPoleatthebeglnningofthenextAntarcticsummer.ThedogspulledtheNorwegians'sledges.Theyranquicklyoverthesnowandpulledthebigsledgesfromtheshipontotheice.Themenranbesidethemonskis.Theyputabigwoodenhouseontheice.Thehousewasfulloffood,andskis,andsledges.TheycalleditFramheim.Out-sidethehouse,thedogslivedinholesunderthesnow.Whenthehousewasready,themenmadetheirfirstjourneysouth.Beforethewinter,theywantedtotakealotoffoodsouth,andleaveitindepots.ForthelongjourneytothePole,theyneededalotoffood,andtheycouldn'tcarryitallwiththem.OnFebruary10th,fivemen,threesledges,eighteendogs,andhalfatonneoffoodleftFramheimandwentsouth.Itwaseasy.TheweatherwaswarmfortheAntarctic,be-tween—7°Centigradeand—17°Centigrade.Thesnowwasgood,andthedogsandskiswentfast.Theywentfiftyorsixtykilometreseveryday.Afterfourdaystheyreached80°South,andmadethefirstdepot.Amundsenmadehisdepotverycarefully.Itwasveryim-portanttofinditagain,nextsummer.Soheputabigblackflagontop.Thenheputtenflagstotheeastofthedepot—eachflaghalfakilometrefromthenext—andtenflagstothewest.Sotherewereflagsforfivekilometrestotheleftofthedepot,andfivekilometrestotheright.ThentheywentbacktoFramheim,andtooksomemorefoodsouth,thistimeto82°South.Thistimeitwasharder.Thetemperaturewassometimes-40°Centigrade,andtherewerestrongwindswithalotofsnow.Thedogsandmenwereverytired,andthetentsandbootswerebad.Attheseconddepot,theyputoutsixtyflags,tohelpthemfinditagain.TheycamebacktoFramheimonMarch23rd.ItwasnearlywinterintheAntarctic.TheirshipFramwasfarawaynow,nearSouthAmerica.Theywerealoneontheice.*****OateswentwithScotttomakethefirstBritishdepot.TheyleftCapeEvansonJanuary25th.Therewerethirteenmen,eightponies,andtwenty-sixdogs.Thedogswerefasterthantheponies—theyranquicklyoverthetopofthesnow,buttheponies'feetwentthroughit.Everymorningtheponiesstartedfirst,andthedogsstartedtwohourslater,becausetheyranfaster.Atnight,thedogsmadewarmholesunderthesnow,buttheponiesstoodontopofthesnow.Itwas-20°Centigrade.第9頁共28頁 AfterfifteendaysOatestalkedtoScott.Therewasastrongwind,andthetwomen'sfaceswerewhitewithsnow.'Threeoftheseponiesareill,Captain,'Oatessaid.'Theycan'tgoon.''Don'tbestupid,Oates,'Scottanswered.'They'regoodstronganimals—thebestponiesonearth.''Notthesethree,'Oatessaid.'They'reill,andunhappy,andnowtheycan'twalk.Let'skillthem,andleavethemeathere,inthesnow.Wecaneatit,orthedogscan.''Ofcoursenot!'Scottsaidangrily.'Theseponiesareourfriends,theyworkhardforus.Idon'tkillmyfriends!'Threedayslater,twooftheponiesweredead.Scott'smenwereslowerthanAmundsen's;ittookthemtwenty-fourdaystogetto80°South.Theymadeabigdepotthere,andputonelargeblackflagontopofit.ThentheywentbacktoCapeEvans.Theircampwasonanislandintheice,andtheseaicemovedsometimes.Therewereholesintheice,andblackseawaterunderit.Onedaysevenponieswentthroughtheiceintothesea,anddied.Onemotorsledgealsowentintothesea.4食品貯藏屋兩艘船,特若·諾瓦號與弗雷門號都抵達南極洲,時間為1911年1月,夏末。英國人與挪威人均想在這冰封的天地里度過整個冬天。他們都想做好準備工作,以求這兒第二年夏天剛開始時能向南極進軍。群狗拉著挪威人的雪橇,在雪地上高速奔跑,將從船上卸下來的大雪橇拉到了冰封他們在冰封世界上建起一座大木屋。屋子里堆滿了食品、滑雪板以及雪橇。他們將這時,他們開始了首次南行征途。在冬天來臨之前,他們打算向南方運出許多食物,并將食物放到各個貯藏屋里。因為在奔赴南極的漫長旅程中,他們需要許多食物。他們不可能隨身帶著所有的食物!2事情進行得頗為順利。此時的南極氣候相對來說還算暖和,介于-7℃與-17℃之間。雪地質(zhì)量不錯,狗與雪橇都跑得不慢,每天能走五六十公里。4天之后,他們到達南緯80°的地方,建立了第一個貯藏屋。阿蒙森非常精心地修建他的貯藏屋。明年夏天需要再度找到它,這點特別重要。所第10頁共28頁 向右延伸5公里,也看得見旗幟。2°的。這次旅程辛苦多了。溫度有時低達-40℃。寒風凜冽,雪花漫天。人困狗乏,帳篷與靴子也不頂事了。在第二個貯藏屋附近,他們插了60面旗,目的是幫助他們能再次找到弗雷門號船早已遠駛而去,現(xiàn)在到了南美洲附近。只有他們孤獨地留在冰封的天地里。*****奧茨跟隨斯科特,前往修建第一座英國人的貯藏屋。他們于1月25日離開了開普埃跑,但是馬腿卻要陷進雪里。每天早晨,都是小馬首先出發(fā)。2小時后,狗兒們才上路,因為它們奔跑速度快些。夜里,狗躲進挖在雪下面的溫暖的洞里,但是小馬只能站在雪15天后,奧茨向斯科特請示。當時強勁的寒風刮起,兩人臉上都沾上一層白雪?!瓣犻L,有3匹小馬病了,”奧茨說,“走不動了?!薄皠e犯傻了,奧茨,”斯科特回答說,“它們都是強壯的好畜牲,地球上最好的小“這3匹不是,”奧茨說,“它們病歪歪的,無精打采?,F(xiàn)在它們根本無法走路。殺了它們吧,將肉留在這兒的雪里。要么我們吃,要么讓狗吃?!薄敖^對不行!”斯科特生氣地說,“這些小馬是我們的朋友,它們拼命地為我們干3天后,其中有2匹小馬死了。斯科特的人比阿蒙森的人動作慢。他們花了24天才抵達南緯80”地區(qū)。他們在那兒修建了一個大貯藏屋,在棚頂上插了一面大黑旗。然后,他們返回開普埃文斯。他們的營地構(gòu)筑在冰島上,海冰有時還會移動。冰層中還有些空洞,可以看到冰下Chapter5ALongColdWinterChapter5ALongColdWinterItwasdarkforfourmonths.OutsidethewoodenhouseatFramheim,itwasoften第11頁共28頁 -60°Centigrade.Thedogslivedinwarmholesunderthesnow.Themenstayedinthehouse,andworkedintheirroomsunderthesnow.TheskisandsledgescamefromthebestshopsinNorway,butBjaalandwasn'thappywiththem.Hechangedalotofthingsontheskisandsledges.Soonthesledgeswerestrongerthanbefore.Theskiswerebetterandfaster,too.AlltheNorwegiansworkedhard.Theylookedaftertheirdogs,andworkedontheirequipment—thesledges,skis,tents.EverydaytheythoughtabouttheirjourneytothePole,andtalkedaboutit.Andeveryday,AmundsenthoughtaboutScott.Oneday,inmidwinter,hetalkedtohismen.'Let'sstartearly,beforeScott,'Amundsensaid.'Remem-ber,Scotthasmorementhanus,andhehasmotorsledges,too.Perhapstheycangofasterthanus.'Bjaalandlaughed.'Ohno,theycan'tgofasterthanme,'hesaid.'Onsnow,nothingcangofasterthanagoodmanonskis.''Wedon'tknow,'Amundsensaid.'You'rethebestskierinNorway,butyougettired,anddogsgettired,too.Motorsledgesdon'tgettired.Theycangoalldayandallnight.'Johansenlaughedangrily.'That'sstupid,'hesaid.'Perhapsthemotorsledgescangoallnight,buttheEnglishmencan't.TheEnglishcan'twin,Roald—theydon'tunderstandsnow,butwedo.Andthey'retooslow.''Perhaps,'Amundsensaid.'ButIwanttowinthisrace.Sowe'regoingtostartearly!Doyouunderstand?'ItwasquietandwarminsideFramheim.BjaalandlookedatAmundsen,andthoughtaboutthelong,coldjourneyinfrontofhim.Hethoughtaboutthedogsintheirholesunderthesnow,andlistenedtothewindoverthehouse.'When,Roald?'hesaidquietly.'OnAugust24th.Thesuncomesbackonthatday.Westartthen.''Butwecan't!'Johansensaid.Helookedangry,andun-happy.'That'stooearly!Wecan'tstartthen—it'sdanger-ousandstupid!'AmundsenlookedatJohansencoldly.'You'rewrong,Jo-hansen,'hesaid.'Wewanttowin,remember?SowestartonAugust24th.'Bjaalandlistenedtothewinterwindoutside.*****InScott'scamp,atCapeEvans,noonetalkedaboutAmundsenandnooneworkedhard.Theyhadgoodfood,andtheyplayedfootballonthesnow.Theywrotea第12頁共28頁 newspaper—ThesouthPolarTimes—andreadbooks.Noonelearnttoski,nooneworkedonthemotorsledges.Twice,menwentforlongjour-neysacrossthesnow.Theywalked,andpulledthesledgesthemselves.OatesstayedatCapeEvansandlookedafterhisponies.OverthewindowinCapeEvans,ScottputamapofAntarc-tica.Withapen,hemadealinefromCapeEvanstotheSouthPole,andheputalittleBritisnFlagatthePole.Underthemap,Scottwrotethedayforthestartoftheirjourney.WestartonNovember3rd,hewrote.5漫長的寒冬4個月中不見天日,一片昏暗。在弗雷門海姆木屋外面,氣溫低到-60℃。狗兒們生盡管滑雪板與雪橇都是從挪威最好的商店內(nèi)購買的,但是比阿蘭德對這些設備并不滿意。于是,他在滑雪板與雪橇上換了許多部件。一會兒功夫雪橇變得結(jié)實多了?;┌遄兊酶檬垢炝?。天,他們都想著遠赴南極的旅程,談論著這次旅程。每天,阿蒙森腦子里都裝著斯科特。隆冬里的一天,他對眾人說:斯科特的人比我們多,他還有機動雪橇。所以,他們可能比我們快?!北劝⑻m德大笑起來?!鞍?,不,他們不可能比我快,”他說,“在雪地上,沒有任何東西能快過優(yōu)秀的滑雪者?!薄昂茈y料定。”阿蒙森說,“你雖是挪威最優(yōu)秀的滑雪者,但是也有累乏的時候,狗也一樣。而機動雪橇則不會累,它能沒日沒夜地跑個不停?!奔s翰森怒極而笑?!罢娲?,”他說,“也許機動雪橇可以整夜不停地跑,但是英國人不能??!英國人不可能贏,羅阿爾。他們不懂雪性,而我們懂。而且他們行進速度非?!薄耙苍S如此,”阿蒙森說,“無論如何我想贏得這次競賽,所以我們要早些出發(fā)!你們理解嗎?”弗雷門海姆的房內(nèi)寧靜而溫暖。比阿蘭德看著阿蒙森,思考起擺在面前漫長寒冷的旅程;想著那些躲在雪洞里的狗兒們;聽著屋外的寒風?!笆裁磿r候出發(fā),羅阿24日,從那天起就又要出太陽了。我們就在那時出發(fā)。”不能在那個時候出發(fā),那是危險又愚蠢的做法!”第13頁共28頁 ”他說,“別忘了,我們想取得勝”比阿蘭德聆聽著窗外的寒風。*****開普埃文斯,斯科特的營地里,沒有任何人談論起阿蒙森的情況,沒有任何人在努南極時報》的報紙,翻閱書籍。沒有人學滑雪,也沒有人保養(yǎng)機動雪橇。這些人兩度進行過橫穿雪原的漫長旅在開普埃文斯的窗戶上,斯科特掛著一張南極洲地圖。他在開普埃文斯與南極之間,用鋼筆劃了條線,并將一面小小的英國國旗插在南極上。地圖下面,斯科特寫下了他們的出發(fā)日期。我們于11月3日出發(fā),他寫道。Chapter6ABadStartChapter6ABadStartOnAugust23rd,theNorwegians'sledgeswereready.Theytookthemoutside,andthedogspulledthemacrossmeice.Thesuncameupforhalfanhour,butitwastoocold:-46°Centigrade.Theycouldnottravelinthatweather.TheywentbacktoFramheimandwaited.Theywaitedtwoweeks,untilSeptember8th.Then,withthetemperatureat-37°Centigrade,theystarted.Theyranhappilyacrossthesnowtothesouth—eightmen,sevensledges,andeighty-sixdogs.OnlyLindstrom,thecook,stayedbehindinFramheim.Atfirsteverythingwentwell.Theywenttwenty-eightkilo-metresonSaturday,andtwenty-eightkilometresonSunday.Itwaseasy.Then,onMonday,thetemperaturewentdown—to-56°Centigrade.Therewaswhitefoginfrontoftheirfaces.Theycouldn'tseeanything.Buttheytravelledtwenty-eightkilometres.Thatnight,intheirtents,theynearlydiedofcold.Nextday,theystoppedandmadesnowhouses.Insidethesnowhouses,itwaswarm.Buteveryonewasunhappy.'Itoldyou,Roald!'Johansensaid.'EvenSeptemberistooearly!Wecan'ttravelinthiscold.Doyouwantustodie?Let'sgobackandwaitforbetterweather.'Amundsenwasveryangry.HewasangrywithJohansen,buthewasangrywithhimself,too.HeknewJohansenwasright.第14頁共28頁 'Allright,'hesaidslowly.'Wecangoontothedepotat80°South,leavethefoodthere,andthengoback.Wecan'tdomorethanthat.'Itwasthirty-sevenkilometrestothedepot.Thewindwasintheirfacesallday.Twodogsdiedontheway.Atthedepot,theydidnotstop.Theyputoutthefoodandtheflags,turnedround,andwentnorth.Atlastthewindwasbehindthem.Thedogsranquickly,andthemensatontheemptysledges.Theywentfasterandfaster.Itwaslikearace.AmundsenwasonWisting'ssledge,andsoonhe,Wisting,andHanssenwerethreeorfourkilometresinfront.Soontheywerealone.Theytravelledseventy-fivekilo-metresinninehours,andtheyreachedFramheimatfouro'clockthatafternoon.Bjaalandarrivedtwohourslater,withtwomoremen.Butthelasttwo—JohansenandPrestrud—wentmoreslowly.Theirdogsweretired,theirfeetwerewetandcold,theyhadnofood,andtheywerealoneinthedark.Thetemperaturewas-51°Centigrade.TheyreachedFramheimatmidnight.Nextmorning,Johansenwasangry.Infrontofeveryone,hesaid:'Youwerewrong,Roald.Septemberwastooearly.Itoldyoubutyoudidn'tlisten.Andthenyouleftusaloneandwenearlydiedinthecold!You'reabadcaptain—I'mabettercaptainthanyouare!'Amundsenwasveryangry.Butatfirsthesaidnothing,be-causeheknewthatJohansenwasright.Then,thatevening,hegavealettertoJohansen.Itsaid:Youaren'tcomingtothePolewithme.WhenIgosouth,youcantakesomedogsandgoeasttoKingEdwardⅦLand.YoucangowithPrestrudandStubberud.Youcanbethefirstmentogothere—butnottotheSouthPole!TheNorwegiansstayedinFramheimandwaited.Theylayinbed,listenedtothewindoutside,andthoughtaboutScottandhismotorsledges.6出師不利8月23日,挪威人的雪橇準備就緒。他們將雪橇搬到戶外,狗拉著雪橇穿行在冰封的大地上。太陽已升起半小時,但是氣候仍舊很冷:-46℃。他們不可能在這種天氣上他們又等了兩個星期,直至9月8日。他們冒著-37℃的低溫,出發(fā)了。他們愉快地林德斯特倫,他留守在弗雷門海姆營地。起初一切順利。星期六他們走了28公里,星期天又走了28公里。事情并不難。然而在星期一,溫度降到-56℃。眼前是一片白茫茫的濃霧,他們啥也看不到。即使如此,他們還是前進了28公里。第15頁共28頁 暖融融的,但是眾人的心都很沉重?!拔医o你講過,羅阿爾!”約翰森說,“即使9月份也為時過早!在這種寒冷的天氣下,我們不可能前行。你要我們死嗎?咱們回去吧,等氣候變好些再走?!卑⒚缮瓙琅翗O。他不僅惱恨約翰森,而且還惱恨自己。他心中明白,約翰森是對在那兒后,再折回。我們只能做這些事了?!彪x貯藏屋有37公里。寒風撲面,整日不歇,有兩條狗死在半路了。到達貯藏屋時,他們沒有任何停頓,拿出食物與旗幟后,馬上向北調(diào)頭了。他們終于將寒風拋在身后。群狗飛快地跑,眾人坐在空雪橇上往回趕。它們速度越來他、威斯丁、漢森就領(lǐng)先了三四公里。再一會兒后,他們已經(jīng)獨領(lǐng)風騷了。9小時內(nèi),他們跑了75公里。他們到達弗雷門海姆時,是那天下午4點鐘。兩小時后,比阿蘭德與另外兩個人趕了回來。最后兩人約翰森與普雷斯楚德速度更孤獨地行進在黑暗之中。當時的氣溫降到-51℃。他們趕回弗雷門海姆時已經(jīng)是半夜了。阿蒙森憤怒至極。但起先一言不發(fā),因為他知道約翰森罵得有理。后來,在那天晚上,他遞給約翰森一封信。信中這樣寫:你不必隨我去南極了。在我出發(fā)南行之時,你可以帶幾條狗向東,趕到愛德華七世地。普雷斯楚德與斯塔伯魯?shù)乱部梢噪S你同去。你們可能成為首批到那兒的人——但不是南極!Chapter7MotorSledgesandMountainsChapter7MotorSledgesandMountainsScotthadtwomotorsledgesnow.TheywerethefirstmotorsledgesintheAntarctic—thefirstonearth.OnOctober24th,themotorsledgesstartedsouthfromCapeEvans.Fourmenwentwiththem,butScottstayedatCapeEvansforanotherweek.Oateswasunhappy.Hewrotetohismother:Wehadaverybadwinterhere.Idon'tlikeScott.Wewerehereallwinter,buthedidn'tlearntoski,ortodrive第16頁共28頁 dogs.Ourequipmentisbad,andhedoesn'tthinkaboutotherpeople.I'mgoingtosleepinhistentonthejourney,butIdon'twantto.OnNovemberlstScottandOatesandsixmoremenleftCapeEvanswitheightsledgesandeightponies.Theponieswalkedslowlybecausetheirfeetwentdownintothesnow.Itwashardworkforthemandtheygottiredveryquickly.Theytravelledthirteenorfourteenkilometresinaday.BehindtheponiescameMeareswithonesledgeandsomedogs.Mearesknewhowtodrivedogs.Everyday,Mearesstartedtwohoursaftertheponies,andarrivedtwohoursbe-forethem.Afterfivedays,theyfoundthemotorsledges.*****TheNorwegiansbeganagainonOctober20th.Therewerefivementhistime—Amundsen,Bjaaland,Wisting,Hassel,andHanssen.Theyhadfoursledges,andforty-eightdogs.Therewasalotofwindandfog.Onthefirstday,Wisting'ssledgesuddenlystopped,andthebackwentdown.'Comeon,youdogs!'hesaidangrily.'Pull!Pull!'Atfirstnothinghap-pened;then,slowly,thesledgemovedagain.Wistinglookeddown,overthesideofthesledge.Underthesnow,therewasafiftymetrehole.'Didyouseethat?'Amundsensaid.'Theicewantstoeatus—ingOnthefourthdaytheyreachedthedepotat80°South.Therewasabadsnowstorm,buttheyfoundtheflagseasily.Nextdaythemenstayedintheirtents,andthedogsplayedintheirholesunderthesnow.Theywereallhappy.TheyhadalotofntandtheywerewarmTheycouldtravelfastNextmorning,thesnowstormstopped,andthejourneybe-ganagain.Today,everythingiswonderful,Bjaalandwroteinhisdiary.ButwhereisScott?Infrontofus,orbehind?*****Therewasnoonewiththemotorsledges;theywerebroken.Scottlookedatthemangrily.'Itdoesn'tmatter,'hesaid.'TeddyEvansandhismenareinfrontofus.They'regoodmen—they'repullingtheirsledgesthemselves.WecangettothePoleonfoot.'OateslookedatMeares.Oatesandtheponiesweretired,butMearesandhisdogs第17頁共28頁 werenot.Thesnowwashomeforthem.Thatnight,Oateswrote:Threemotorsledgesat£1,000each,19poniesatOnNovember21st,oneoftheponiesdied.*****OnNovember11th,theNorwegianssawthemountains.Themountainswereveryhigh—someofthehighestonearth.Bjaalandsmiled.'Thereisgoodskiingupthere,Roald,'hesaid.'Butcandogsgetuptheretoo?''Ofcoursetheycan,'Amundsensaid.'Comeon.'TheyleftHanssenwiththedogs,andskiedalittlewayupthemountains.Itwasdifficult,butthemountainswerebigandbeautiful.Behindthemountains,Amundsenthoughttherewasahighplateauofice.'That'sit,'Amundsensaid.'That'stheroadtothePole.Tomorrow,wecanbringthedogsandsledgesuphere.Butnow,let'shaveaskirace.Whocangetbacktocampfirst?'tesnowThisislikehome,'Bjaalandthought.'Butit'sbiggerthanNorway,andbetter.'Inthenextfourdays,thedogspulledthesledgeseighty-onekilometres,andwentup3,000metres.Atlast,AmundsenandBjaalandstoodontheplateaubehindthemountains.Theyweretired,happymen.Bjaalandlookedbackatthemountains.'Canamotorsledgegetuphere?'heasked.Amundsensmiled.'No,'hesaid.'Idon'tthinkso.AndScottdoesn'tlikedogs.Sohismenaregoingtopulltheirsledgesupthesemountainsthemselves.Wouldyouliketodothat,Olav?'Bjaalanddidn'tanswer.Hesmiled,andskiedhappilyawayacrossthesnow.7機動雪橇與大山斯科特現(xiàn)有兩輛機動雪橇,這兩輛機動雪橇不僅在南極洲而且在地球上也是首次出開普埃文斯又逗留了一星期。斯科特。我們整個冬天都在這兒閑著,可是他既不學滑雪,也不學駕馭狗。我們的設備不好,但他是不會為別人著想的。一旦我們踏上旅程,我將與他同睡一個帳篷,這可不是第18頁共28頁 我愿意的。匹小馬。這些小馬走得不快,因為馬腿總會踩進雪里。這對它們來說太辛苦了。它們的體力消耗得很快,一天只能走十三四公里。在小馬后面,是米爾斯。他駕著一輛雪橇與幾條狗。米爾斯懂得駕馭狗。每天,

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