毛衫的基礎(chǔ)知識

毛衫的根底學(xué)問毛衣、毛衫的按做工的種類及一般毛衣的生產(chǎn)流程毛衣分為手工編織毛衣和機(jī)器編織兩種。手編毛衣織你只需要有毛線和幾根細(xì)較松散;機(jī)器編織的毛衣，一般有3針至14針，3針毛衣的毛線粗，14針毛衣的毛強(qiáng)項。毛衣服裝加工生產(chǎn)的根本流程:補(bǔ)衣—復(fù)查—總查—燙衣—掛牌—包裝毛衣加工生產(chǎn)步驟中一般常見的瑕疵種類:/花針/單毛/駁毛/扯旗/粗幼毛/花毛/抽筋/1.織片2.查片:是否錯色錯缸,嚗吼/單毛等3.縫盤:6/8/10/12針盤,可能消滅縫線太緊/太松(起耳仔),跳線,漏眼等狀況:拆紗口/修口;挑口(挑生口);手針編織或縫生口,例,直貼腳位有否偏4.挑撞松或緊,杏領(lǐng)嘴撞得是否美觀.5.補(bǔ)衣:洗水前的一個工序,有此疵點比方嚗吼,假設(shè)洗水前不進(jìn)展修補(bǔ),洗水后衫片縮水,孔眼小或又因毛料關(guān)系甚至孔眼洗爛越洗越爛,至使后期工作難做.6.洗水:目的:去污漬/油漬,起毛效果,手感的軟硬度,間色固色度,去異味.缺點:7A/B/平,絲等簡潔上下深淺色,漏燙也會有此現(xiàn)象8./9.10./折迭/裝箱毛織生產(chǎn)流程圖971字號:大中小訂閱毛織生產(chǎn)流程示意打初辦(可以用代用毛料或輔料做，做好后給客批)辦房流程確認(rèn)后，客下訂單，)比照的辦，)訂毛、訂輔料領(lǐng)、胸貼、袋子等，織機(jī)又分為手機(jī)、電機(jī)、電腦機(jī)，一樣)手感等各種客人要求。)初查(對衣服進(jìn)展初部的檢查，主要是洗水后的線頭出來，則初查要生產(chǎn)部補(bǔ)衣(把查出的有爛、次的補(bǔ)好，)復(fù)查(再查一次補(bǔ)好后的衫，并分類交下部門，)法。)總查(最終看整體，能否到達(dá)客人要求。)包裝(依據(jù)客人要求完成。)術(shù)語中英文比照acetateacetateacrylic腈綸aliginatefiberasbestosfibre石棉纖維bast樹內(nèi)皮blendfiberbraid飾帶cashmerecelluloseestercellulose纖維素felting制氈材料filamentflax亞麻纖維hemp大麻jute黃麻man-madefiberman-madefibermodacrylicmohairpolyethylene聚乙烯纖維polymerpolyolefinpolypropylenerayon人造絲regeneratedfiberspandex/elastomerstaplesynthetic合成纖維synthetic合成纖維tufting裁絨viscose粘膠纖維wovenfabricproductsinspection,checkcommodityinspection領(lǐng)面松wrinklesattopcollartightloosecollaredgeappearstightcollarbandislongerthancollarcollarbandiswrinklesatcollarbandfacing底領(lǐng)外露collarbandleanoutofcollar倘領(lǐng)偏斜collardeviatesfromfrontcenterlinecreasesbelownecklinenecklinewrinklesattoplapeltoplapelappearstightlapeledgeappearsloose駁頭外口緊lapeledgeappearslineisunevengorgelineisuneven領(lǐng)tightnecklinefromneckpuckersatshoulders塌肩wrinklesatshouldercreasesatunderarmseamlackoffullnessatchest省crumplesatdartpointwrinklesatzipflyunevenfrontedgeisoutofsquare止frontedgeisupturnedfacingleansoutoffrontedge止splitatfrontedgefrontedgewrinklesathembackofcoatridesupsplitatbackventbackventpuckersatquiltingpaddedcottonisunevenemptyhematsleevecapsleeveleanstofrontsleeveleanstobackinseamleanstofrontopeningdiagonalwrinklesatsleeveliningtopflapappearstightoutofedgeflapedgeisunevencreasesontwoendsofpocketmouthsplitatpocketmouthisunevenwrinklesatwaistbandfacingcreasesatrightflyshortseatslackseatwrinklesatfrontriseseamtwolegsareunevenlegopeningisunevenpullingatoutseamorinseam燙跡線外撇creaselineleanstolineleanstoinsidebunchesbelowwaistlineseamsplitatlowerpartofskirt裙身吊splithemlineridesupskirtflareisunevenoutline雙軌接線stitchseamisuneven跳針skipping尺碼不符offsizeisnotgoodwashingqualityisnotgoodpressingqualityisnotgoodiron-shinewaterstaincolorshade,offshade,colordeviationthreadresidueofseamembroiderydesignoutlineisuncoveredQC)BADJOINSTITCHES駁線不良BIGEYELID大眼皮BROKENHOLE破洞BROKENSTITCHESBROKENYARN斷紗CENTERBACKRIDESUPCOLLARPOINTHI/LOW領(lǐng)尖凹凸COLORSHADING色差COLORTHREADLEFTINSIDECOLORYARN色紗CREASEMARK摺痕CROSSEDBACKVENT背叉攪CUFFFACINGVISIBLEDIRTYDOTDIRTYMARK污漬DIRTYSPOTDRAWYARN抽紗EXCESSEXTENSIONFABRICDEFECTS布疵FLAPSTRICKINGUP袋蓋反翹FRONTHORIZONTALSEAMNOTLEVELHI/LOWPOCKET凹凸袋HIKINGATBOTTOMOFPLACKET前筒吊腳HIKINGUP起吊IMPROPERCROSSSEAMATJOININGSIDESEAM對KNOT結(jié)頭LININGTOOFULL/TIGHT里布太多/太緊MISMATCHCHECKS/STRIPES格仔/NEEDLEHOLEOFFGRAIN布紋歪OILSTAINOPENSEAMOVERLAPPEDCOLLAROVERLAPPEDLIPS疊唇OVERPRESSOVERWASH洗水過度PLEATED打褶POORBACK-STITCHESPOORIRONINGPUCKER起皺PULLINGATINSIDE/OUTSIDESEAMRAWEDGERUBBLING起泡RUNOFFSTITCHES落坑SCRIMP印花裂痕SEAMOVERTURN止口反骨SHADINGGARMENTTOGARMENT衫與衫之間色差SHADINGWITHIN1PCSGARMENTSKIPPEDSTITCHESSLEEVELENGTHUNEVEN長短袖SLUB毛粒SMILINGPOCHET袋“笑口”STRIPES/CHECKSNOTMATCHING/THICKYARNTHREADVISIBLEOUTSIDE縫線外露TWISTLEG扭髀TWIST扭UNCUTTHREADENDS線頭UNDERTHREADVISIBLEUNDERPLYTURNOUT反光UNDERPLYVISIBLEOUTSIDEUNDERPRESS熨燙不夠UNEVENCOLORUNEVENLIPS大小唇UNEVENSLEEVELENGTH長短袖UNEVENSTITCHINGDENSITY針步密度不均勻UNMATCHEDCROTCHCROSS下襠UNMEETBACKVENT背叉豁WAVYATPLACKETWRONGCOMBOWRONGPATTERN圖案錯誤WRONGSIZEINDICATED錯碼ARMHOLECURVE/STRAIGHT/直度)BACKCROSSBACKRISE后浪BELTLOOP褲耳Bicep臂圍BOTTOM腳闊BUSTWIDTHC/BLENGTH后中長COLLARBANDHEIGHTCOLLARLENGTHCOLLARPOINTSPREADCOLLARPOINTCUFFWIDTH介英寬FLYLENGTH鈕牌長FLYWIDTH鈕牌闊FRONTCROSSFRONTNECKDROPFRONTRISEHIGHHIP上坐圍HIP坐圍INSEAMLENGTH內(nèi)長KNEE膝圍LEGOPENINGNECKWIDTH頸闊OUTSEAMLENGTH外長Overarm袖長PLACKETWIDTHPOCKETHIGHPOINTSHOULDERACROSS肩闊SLEEVECROWNHEIGHT袖山高SLEEVELENGTH袖長SLEEVEOPENING袖口闊SMALLSHOULDERSWEEP(HALF)小肩長裙闊(裙底半度)THIGH(UNDERCROTCH)脾圍UPPERARMWIDTHUPPERCOLLARHEIGHT上級領(lǐng)高WAISTWIDTH腰闊WAIST(RELAX)腰圍(松度)WAIST(STRETCHED)腰圍(拉度)WAISTBAND褲頭高丈青:navy玉:jade沙子色:sand青銅色:gunmetal:stone米黃色:cream酒紅色:wine金:gold黃色:yellow黑色:black橄欖色:olive:pink古銅色:antigold:natural:peach水仙黃:daffod珊瑚色:coral青銅色:gilt藍(lán)灰色:pewter湖水藍(lán):turq紅古銅色:bronze:fuchsia:pistac:rainbow色:shockingredpink粉紅色salmonpinkbabypinkshockingpinkbrown褐色,茶色beige灰褐色chocolatesandybeigecamel駝色amber琥珀色khaki卡其色maroongreen綠色mossgreen苔綠色emeraldgreenolivegreenblue藍(lán)色turquoisebluecobaltbluenavyblue藏青aquamarineblueredscarlet緋紅,猩紅mauve紫紅winered葡萄酒紅purple,violetlavender淡紫色lilac淺紫色antiqueviolet古紫色pansy紫羅蘭色white白色off-white灰白色ivory象牙色snowywhite潔白色oysterwhite乳白色gray灰色charcoalgray炭灰色smokygray煙灰色mistygray霧灰色BABYBLUETIGERLILY橘紅STORM霧灰WINTERSKYVAPORBLUEOYSTERGREYJESTERRED大紅CANDYPINKJAFFAORANGE橘黃paletaupecrackerkha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本錢。在計算毛料用量是，依照客戶碼數(shù)要求，一般要每個碼多算幾件，避開因次品10004(S/M/L/XL比例203M、L3002041014203*S+304*M+304*L+203*XL/12毛損:依毛料質(zhì)量不同，毛損一般為:2%--5%:3%--5%縫毛用量:間紗用量*(1+毛損率)*1.05+縫毛用量G感覺來答復(fù)。在淘寶中，賣家在公布毛衣產(chǎn)品時，淘寶在厚薄的選項只有三項:薄款、一般、加厚。其實，這是個很籠統(tǒng)的概念，實際毛衣加工生產(chǎn)中，是以“針數(shù)”來確定的?！搬様?shù)”用英文字母“G”1.5G、3G、3.5G、5G、7G、9G、12G、14G1177G2.54CM線就可以更粗些，做出來的毛衣就厚點，所以，針數(shù)越小，毛衣越厚，反之亦然14G的毛衣的厚度比一般的T恤還要薄些。需要留意的是，同樣的針數(shù)，用1條毛3G1