美文選刊 品味杭州（中英文互譯）

美文選刊品味杭州（中英文互譯）品味杭州GettingintoHangzhou對(duì)于一個(gè)地方的看法、感受，從觀光或常住的角度是不同的。以前作為旅游觀光者也曾數(shù)次來杭，但現(xiàn)在不同了。我長(zhǎng)期任教于此，有這里的師生、朋友，體會(huì)便大不相同；換言之，是可細(xì)細(xì)品味了。Theperceptionofaplacemaybequitedifferentfromtheperspectivesofsightseeingandpermanentresidence.Previously,IhadvisitedHangzhouseveraltimesasatourist:itsfeel,however,borenocomparisonwithwhatIamexperiencingnowasalong-termcontractprofessorwhoisacquaintedwithalargenumberofhisstudents,colleaguesandfriends.Inotherwords,nowIcanreallygettothebottomoftheplace.

作為地道的北京人，我們習(xí)慣稱其他地方為“外地”，并自然而然與北京相比。如果說北京富麗的故宮、雄偉的長(zhǎng)城等透露的是一種帝王的霸氣，那么杭州的蘇堤春曉、平湖秋月、斷橋殘雪、柳浪聞鶯等飄散的則是文人的雅氣。NativeBeijingers,suchasmyself,areusedtocallingplacesoutsideBeijing“alien”,andnaturallycomparethemwiththecapital.ThesplendidForbiddenCityandmagnificentGreatWallinBeijingmayrevealakindofimperialhegemonicspirit;thesceneryinHangzhou,however,embodiedin“DawnontheSuCausewayinSpring”,“MoonoverthePeacefulLakeinAutumn”,“BrokenBridgewithThawingSnow”,“OriolesSingingintheWillows”andsoondivulgeanelegantairoftheliterati.

由于地處富庶江南，氣候宜人，極少戰(zhàn)亂，杭州逐漸形成了自己悠然安詳?shù)某鞘行愿?。不像喧囂的大城市上海，一來到這里，會(huì)讓你腳步放慢、心情松弛下來。順便而言，這兩城市的關(guān)系，有點(diǎn)像英國(guó)的倫敦與劍橋；因工作競(jìng)爭(zhēng)、房?jī)r(jià)等因素，人群之間也發(fā)生著類似的對(duì)流。BlessedwiththeaffluentsouthoftheYangtzeRiver,pleasantclimateandfewwars,Hangzhouhasgraduallyformeditssereneurbancharacter.UnlikebustlingmetropolisShanghai,assoonasyousetfoothere,youwillslowdownandrelax.Therelationshipbetweenthetwocitiesandtheinterflowoftheirpeople,bytheway,isabitlikethatofLondonandCambridgeintheUKintermsofjobandpropertymarkets.

自2004年起，杭州連續(xù)五年蟬聯(lián)“中國(guó)最具幸福感城市”；2008年，杭州又在《瞭望東方周刊》“中國(guó)最具幸福感城市”評(píng)比中名列第一。Forfiveconsecutiveyearsfrom2004,Hangzhouwasrecognizedasthe“CityofWell-Being”inChina.In2008,itrankedfirstinthecompetitionunderthesamethemeorganizedby

OrientalOutlookWeekly.

說來杭州的格局竟是由歷史上的兩位文人奠定的。一是唐朝的白居易，他做刺史時(shí)改造了西湖，修建了新堤，惠民至今。那天走在白堤上，我問一個(gè)學(xué)生模樣的年輕人：“你知道白居易是誰嗎？”他脫口而出：“白市長(zhǎng)嗎？當(dāng)然知道了。他當(dāng)我們市長(zhǎng)的時(shí)候，實(shí)行房屋新政，解決了大部分人的居住問題，老百姓很感激，所以送了他雅號(hào)‘白居易’。”這雖然是調(diào)侃，但可以看出白居易和杭州人的親密關(guān)系——人們說起他，全然不像在談?wù)撘粋€(gè)一千多年前的人物！Interestingly,thelifestyleoftoday’sHangzhouwaslaiddownbytwohistoricalmenofletters.OnewasBaiJuyi(772—846)oftheTangDynasty(618—907),whorebuilttheWestLakeandmadeanewdyketobenefitthelocalswhenheservedastheprefecturalgovernor.WalkingontheBaiCauseway(namedafterBaiJuyi)oneday,Iaskedayoungstudent-lookingman:“DoyouknowwhoBaiJuyiwas?”“Ofcourse,”heblurtedout,“MayorBaiimplementedthenewhousingpolicyandsolvedthehousingconundrumofmostpeople,whoweresogratefulandthengavehimthenickname‘BaiJuyi’.”(InChinese,thesamecharacter“Bai”canalsomean“free”;“Ju”,housing;“yi”,easy.)Althoughit’sajoke,onecansensetheintimaterelationshipbetweenhimandHangzhoupeople;whenmentioninghim,itdoesn’tsoundlikeoneistalkingaboutapersonwholivedmorethanathousandyearsago!

另一位是宋朝的蘇軾，熙寧四年（1071年），他因上書反對(duì)王安石變法中的流弊，遭到政敵陷害，被迫離開都城汴京，調(diào)任杭州通判，結(jié)束任期后，因思念此地，曾再度回來，把這里作為他的第二故鄉(xiāng)。他勤政為民，豁達(dá)瀟灑，留下許多佳話，其中最為人樂道的自然是蘇堤和東坡肉。千年之后，人們記起他的，似乎都是愉快的事。TheotherwasSuShi(1037—1101)oftheSongDynasty(970—1279).HewastransferredtoHangzhouasamagistratefromhispostinthecapitalofBianjingafterbeingframedbyhispoliticalopponentsforsubmittingalettertoopposetheflawsofWangAnshi’sreform.MissingHangzhousomuch,hecamebackagainafterfinishinghistermandtreatedthisplaceashissecondhometown.Hisopen-mindedandunrestrainedpersonalityanddiligenceforhispeopleleftmanymuch-toldtales.ThemostmemorablereferencesareofcoursetheSuCauseway(namedafterhim)andBraisedDongpoPork(theporkwasnamedafterhisstyledname).Seemingly,mentioninghisnamegivespeoplejoyevenafterathousandyears.

十三世紀(jì)時(shí)，意大利旅行家馬可·波羅來到這里，對(duì)杭州的美贊不絕口，說她美麗而高貴。我想這不僅是對(duì)其自然景色的稱道，其中也包括人文成分。Inthe13thCentury,MarcoPolo,anItaliantraveler,camehereandwasfullofpraiseforitsbeautyandnobility,whichIthinknotonlycovereditsnaturalscenerybutalsoitshumanelements.與當(dāng)?shù)囟喾饺耸拷佑|后，我感到杭州人的性格是溫和的。北京人的骨子里有一種哏勁，說得不對(duì)付了會(huì)寸步不讓，叫真兒到底。杭州人則很少發(fā)生直接沖突。首先他們說話的語氣沒有那么“沖”，多是商量性的口吻，更多配合與信任，實(shí)在不成了，還會(huì)說：“先生，咱們?cè)傧胂朕k法吧？”Havingwidecontactswithlocalpeople,I’vegenerallyfoundthepersonalityofHangzhoupeopletobemild.ComparedtonativeBeijingers,whoaresomewhatstubbornintheircharacters,willingtofighttotheendwithsomeonetheydon’tgetalongwith,Hangzhoupeoplerarelyhavedirectconflictswithothers.Firstofall,theirtoneofvoiceisnotso“blasting”,anditoffersnarrativesthatarenormallysuggestiveandtrustworthy.Ifthingsdonotworkout,theymaysay,“Sir,let’sreconsidersomeotherways?”

杭州人的溫和性格，還會(huì)讓人聯(lián)想到這里的特產(chǎn)：柔軟的絲綢、小籠包、西湖醋魚……ThegentlenatureofHangzhoupeoplemayeasilyremindusofitslocalspecialties,suchassoftsilk,steamedbunswithstuffing,WestLakefishinvinegargravysauce…

過馬路時(shí)，走在斑馬線上，雙向車輛一般都會(huì)停在你跟前禮讓，這在中國(guó)港澳以外的城市是不多見的；好像杭州人平時(shí)并沒有那么多著急的事。Whencrossingtheroad,solongasyouareonthezebrastripes,vehiclesfrombothdirectionsusuallystopinfrontofyou,whichisprettyrareincitiesofChinaotherthanHongKongandMacao.ItseemsthatHangzhoupeopledon’thavemanythingstorushtointheirdailylife.

與北京的的哥不同，這里的出租車司機(jī)很少跟你聊政治，他們更愿向你推薦杭州的景點(diǎn)、特產(chǎn)和美食；各個(gè)都像導(dǎo)游，都以這些為傲。一次，我打車要去一處步行街，司機(jī)竭力給我推薦了另一處，說那里更有的看。下車后發(fā)現(xiàn)，是一個(gè)絲綢展銷會(huì)的門口。后來了解到，每次只要司機(jī)把人帶到這里（不論是否購(gòu)買），展銷會(huì)主辦方都會(huì)付給他們提成。這種商業(yè)運(yùn)作亦是和風(fēng)細(xì)雨式的，即是在大量介紹、勸導(dǎo)之后、你情我愿地發(fā)生的，似乎亦是無可厚非。IncontrasttoBeijing’s

dige

(thenicknamefortaxidriversinBeijing),taxidrivershererarelytalkaboutpoliticswithyou;instead,theyprefertorecommendHangzhou’sattractions,specialtiesanddelicacies,actingproudlyastourguides.Oneday,whenItookacabtogotoapedestrianstreet,thedriversuggestedtomeanotherplacewheretherewouldbemorethingstoseeanddo.Gettingoutofthecar,Ifoundmyselfinthedoorwayofasilkfair.LaterIrealizedthateverytimeadriverbroughtsomeonehere,acommissionwaspaidbythefairorganizersregardlessofwhethertheguestpurchasedornot.Thiskindofcommercialoperationwascarriedoutalsoinagentleandsmoothway,sinceIwasfullyinformedandwillingtobehereafteragreatdealofintroductionandpersuasion;reallyIhadnothingtocomplainabout.

其實(shí)，杭州這個(gè)名義上的二線城市，在內(nèi)涵上哪一方面也不輸給一線城市。歷史上，杭州也曾是中國(guó)的首都，長(zhǎng)達(dá)150年之久，有著豐厚的文化底蘊(yùn)，且名人輩出，除白、蘇二位外，還有于謙、沈括、郁達(dá)夫、龔自珍、章太炎、夏衍、余華等等。論面積，一個(gè)杭州等于8.3個(gè)深圳、15個(gè)香港、7.6個(gè)東京、21個(gè)紐約、157個(gè)巴黎！Asaso-calledsecond-tiercity,Hangzhouinfactisbynomeansinferiortoanyfirst-tiercityinChina.Historically,HangzhouhadbeenthecapitalofChinafor150years,withanabundantculturalheritageandnumerouscelebrities.ApartfromBaiandSumentionedabove,thereweremanywell-knownfigureslikeYuQian,ShenKuo,YuDafu,GongZizhen,ZhangTaiyan,XiaYan,YuHua.Intermsofarea,surpri