服裝制作標(biāo)準(zhǔn)培訓(xùn)課件

1GarmentsConstructionStandards服裝制作標(biāo)準(zhǔn)Contents目錄Section1:-Componentsandtrims成分和輔料·

Fabric面料·

Interlinings粘襯·

Internaltrims內(nèi)部輔料·

Linings里布·

Threads縫紉線·

Zips拉鏈·

Buttons紐扣·

Fastenings,rivetsandstuds扣合件，鉚釘和工字扣·

Trims,beltsandmotifs飾邊，腰繩和花邊·

Elastication橡筋·

Accessories服飾配件Section2:-Manufacturingguidelines生產(chǎn)指導(dǎo)·

Garments衣服·

Accessories服飾配件

Section3:-Presentationguidelines外觀指導(dǎo)·

Pressing熨燙·

FinishedGoods整理·

Labels標(biāo)牌·

Packing包裝

Section4:-Safety安全性·

Garments衣服·

Accessories服飾配件·

ReplacementNeedleProcedure斷針紀(jì)錄·

GoodHousekeepingGuide良好的管理指導(dǎo)

Section5:-Children‘sSafetyRequirements童裝安全性要求·

Fabric/Materials面料/原料·

Components成分·

DesignAspects設(shè)計外觀·

TextileAccessories紡織輔料·

MetalContent金屬物料·

Toxicity毒性·

Nickel鎳

LabTest測試2Internaltrim內(nèi)部裝飾FormenswearPoly/cottonwovenpocketingmustbeused.

必須用滌/棉梭織物做男裝口袋布。Lining里料

·

Forpaddedgarmentstheliningmustbequiltedorstitchedatappropriateintervalstopreventthepaddingfromfalling.Paddingmustnotescapethroughtheweaveoftheouterfabricoftheinnerlining.

對于有填充物的衣服，里料必須衍縫或加縫適當(dāng)間距的緝線防止填充物陷落。填充物不能透出里布面料。

·

Liningmustnotbevisiblebeyondthehemlineofcuffsofagarment.Theliningmustfinish2.5cm(1inch)abovethehem,andcoverthehemstitching.

里料不能吐露服裝下擺及克夫。必須在擺上2.5CM(1英寸)處修光邊且遮蓋下擺縫跡。

Thefibresusedintheliningmustbestatedonthecarelab

里布面料成分必須注明在洗標(biāo)上。Sewingthread縫紉線·

Mustbeagoodcolourmatchunlessintendedasacontrast.

必須良好配色除非設(shè)計成撞色?！?/p>

Mustbecolourfasttowashingandlight.

在洗滌及光照下不能褪色?！?/p>

100%Polyesterthreadmustbeusedonproductswithlowflammabilityrequirements.

要求必須用低燃點的100%聚脂纖維縫紉線。

·

Bulkthreadshouldbeusedinover-locklooperswhensewingElastanefabrics.

縫制彈性面料時必須用包縫線跡。

·

Monofilamentthreadisnotacceptableforuseatanytime.

任何情況下都禁止使用單纖維縫線。

3

SECTION1COMPONENTSANDTRIMS第一部分成分和輔料Thefollowingsectiongivesasummaryofthegeneralqualityassuranceproceduresforcomponentstrims.

以下部分將列出關(guān)于服裝部件的一般品質(zhì)保證程序概要。Allcomponentstrimsmustbesuitablefortheaftercareofthegarmentaccordingtothewashcareinstructionsgiven.所有服裝部件必須與服裝上的洗標(biāo)所顯示的內(nèi)容相吻合。

Fabric面料·

Takecaretomakesurethatallfabricswithraisedfibersthatproducea

nap,orfabricthatis‘cutoneway’design,arecutsothatseparatepanelsandseparategarmentpiecesruninthesamedirection.注意所有拉絨的凸面織物，或設(shè)計為以一個方向裁剪的面料，必須以同方向縫制拼片和服裝部件?！?/p>

Fabricfaultsarenotacceptableingarmentsunlesstheyareinherentinthefabricandareagreedatthebuyingstage.不接受服裝面料上的疵點除非是緣于面料本身固有的問題造成的或疵點在客人接受的范圍內(nèi)?！?/p>

Variationsofshadingareunacceptablewithinagarment,orfromonegarmenttoanother.Garmentpiecesmustbenumberedaftercutting.

不接受同一件服裝上的色差或服裝間的缸差。開裁后的服裝裁片必須編號防止產(chǎn)生色差。Interlinings粘襯·

Garmentsshowing‘delamination’(bubbling),gluemarksorstrikethroughcausedbyinterliningarenotacceptable.Allinterliningsmustbeappliedusingcorrecttemperatureswithfusingmachinestestedatregularintervals.不接受由于粘襯導(dǎo)致服裝上的分層，起泡，露膠或者穿透。所有的粘襯必須用熱熔機械以正確的溫度粘貼并且定期測試。4Zips拉鏈

·

OnlyzipsapprovedbyBSareaccepted.只接受經(jīng)過公司確認(rèn)的拉鏈?！?/p>

Springlockorautolockzipsmustbeused.Autolockzipsarepreferred.Pintuckzipsarenotacceptable.

必須用彈簧鎖或自動鎖頭拉練。首選用自動鎖頭拉練。不能用大頭針拉練?！?/p>

Thebaseofanopen-endedzipmustbereinforcedwhereattachedtothefabric.Thezipslidermustnotbeobstructed.

拉鏈縫到面料上底端開口處必須加固，上下拉動拉鏈時不能有生澀的感覺。·

Thetopsofthezipsshouldbesecuredwithatopzipstopwherenecessary.Nosharpedgesshouldprotrudeatthetop.Allsurpluszipteethshouldberemoved.

拉鏈頂端需要處必須有齒止安全保護(hù)。頂端不能有突出的鋒利邊緣，多余的拉齒必須剪掉。

Theremustbenosharpedgesexposedatthebottomoftheziptape.Thesemustbetrimmedbackorifpossibleenclosedinthehemfabric.Allmetalpartsmustberemoved.

拉鏈碼帶底部不能留有鋒利的邊緣，反面必須修光，如果縫于下擺上，所有的金屬部分必須清除。

Buttons紐扣·

Allgarmentsmustcarryasparebuttonofeachligneused.Theremustbe2sparebuttonsifthegarmenthas10buttonsormore.

所有的服裝上每個款式的紐扣必須留有一顆備紐，若服裝上有十顆或者更多此款紐扣，必須留有兩顆備鈕?！?/p>

Buttonsmustbesecurelyattachedusingalockstitchmachine.

紐扣必須用鎖式縫紉線釘扣機縫釘牢固?！?/p>

Metalcomponentsmustbenickelfree.

金屬成分中不能含鎳?！?/p>

Non-toxicbuttonsmustbeused.

紐扣必須無毒性。·

Buttonsusedonchildrenswearmustnotbetwo-part.

童裝上的紐扣不能是可以分成兩個部分的類型?！?/p>

Buttonsusedonchildrenswearmustnotrepresentanyformoffoodsubstance.

童裝上的紐扣不能有任何和食物主旨相關(guān)的圖案。5Fastenings,poppers,andstuds扣合件，銬紐和工字扣

·

Fasteningmustbesecurelyattachedtothegarmentwithoutcausingdamagetothefabricofthefasteneritself.Theremustbenosharpedges

扣合件必須安全牢固得縫制在服裝上且不能由于扣合件本身導(dǎo)致面料破損，不能有尖銳的邊緣?！?/p>

Metalfastenersandcomponentsmustnotrustafterwashing.

金屬扣合件和輔料水洗后不能生銹?！?/p>

Postfastenersmustnotbeusedonwovenfabricsandprongsonknittedfabrics.

扣合件中的紐柱不能用于梭織面料，不能插在針織面料上?！?/p>

Thelengthofthepostorprongmustbeappropriateforthefabricthickness.

紐柱的長度或襠叉必須適合面料的厚度。·

Lightweightknittedfabricsmayrequireinterliningtopreventladdering.

薄型針織面料可能需要夾層防止線圈脫落。·

Allgarmentswithfasteningsmustbeopenedandclosedduringinspection.

所有用扣合件的服裝在檢查時必須查核扣合件的開閉情況?！?/p>

Allfasteningsmustmeetcustomerspulltestregulations.

所有扣合件必須經(jīng)過客人的拉力測試規(guī)則?！?/p>

Recordofpulltestingshouldbekeptfor1year.

拉力測試記錄應(yīng)當(dāng)保持一年。Belts,trimsandmotifs腰帶，飾邊和花邊

·

Ifdetachabletrimse.g.belts,arenotwashable,thismustshownonthesewn-incarelabel.

可脫卸的裝飾物例如腰帶等，若不可水洗，必須在洗標(biāo)上注明。·

Ifmotifsprintsandtrimscan’tbeironed,thismustbeshownonthesewn-inlabel.

若裝飾物或印花不可熨燙，必須在洗標(biāo)上注明?！?/p>

Theremustbebackingonfabricofwashablebelts.可水洗的繩帶必須在面料上打回針牢固。Elastication

橡筋

·

Stitchingmustnotcrack.

縫制時不能斷裂?！?/p>

Thejoinoftheelasticmustbesecuredbydoublestitchingtoatleast2cm.

接縫橡筋時必須安全雙縫牢固至少2公分左右?！?/p>

Elasticshouldbeattachedinawaythatpreventstwistingorrolling.Anyfullnessmustbedistributedevenly.

縫制橡筋時必須采取不能產(chǎn)生卷翹起伏現(xiàn)象的方法，任何寬松位必須均勻分布。Accessories服飾配件

·

Allattachmentsandfinishesmustbefreefromrust,tarnishandsharpedges.

所有配件飾物必須不能生銹，失去光澤或有尖銳邊緣?！?/p>

Beltsmustalwaysbefastenedinthecenterhole.

腰繩必須在孔管中固定?！?/p>

Beltsshouldalwaysbekimbalattachedtogarmentforsecurity.

腰繩必須系扎在服裝上以防安全。6SECTION2MANUFACTURINGGUIDELINES第二部分生產(chǎn)指導(dǎo)Garments衣服·

Thewaygarmentsarecut;puttogetherandfinishedwillinfluencetheirappearanceanddurabilityduetothegarmentsbeingwornoften.

服裝裁剪時，面料必須放在一起且同時完成影響外觀的整理及經(jīng)常穿著所需的耐磨處理?！?/p>

Allexcessthreadsmustbetrimmedandremovedfromthegarment.

服裝上的浮線必須清理修剪干凈?！?/p>

Stitchingmustbecorrectlyspacedandtensionedtomakesurethereisnoseamgrinning,buttheseammuststretchinrelationtothefabricproperties.Donotuselockstitchonstretchfabrics.

Werecommend10to12stitchesinevery2.5cmofwovenfabrics,buttheseammuststretchinrelationtothefabricproperties.

縫紉必須有適當(dāng)?shù)拈g距和松緊度防止爆口，同時應(yīng)根據(jù)面料特性適當(dāng)具有彈性。不要用鎖式線跡縫紉彈性面料。對于梭織面料推薦每2.5公分10-12針，但縫紉應(yīng)根據(jù)面料特性具有彈性?！?/p>

Allvisiblerawedgesofwovenfabricsmustbeoverlockedorneatened.

面料上所有可見毛邊必須鎖邊或清理干凈?！?/p>

Asinglethreadchainstitchisnotacceptable.

不接受單線鏈?zhǔn)娇p跡。·

Allbackriseseamsshouldbetwo-threadchainstitchordoublerowlockstitch.

所有后檔縫應(yīng)當(dāng)用雙針鏈?zhǔn)娇p跡或雙行鎖式線跡。·

Allneckclosureseamsshouldbe1cmpasttheshoulderseamtowardsthebackofthegarment.

所有頸縫末段處應(yīng)當(dāng)在服裝背面向后過肩縫1公分?！?/p>

Theedgesofquiltedgarmentpartsmustbestitchedbeforethepartsareassembled.

對于有填充物的衍縫服裝部件，在組合前必須先緝邊縫?！?/p>

Feltingshouldbelatchedoffwithnorunbackoflooseends.氈毯類織物必須鎖邊防止脫散?！?/p>

TopreventElastanerunbackandneedledamageonElastaneblendfabrics,werecommendyouuseballpointneedles.為了防止橡筋縫在面料上時脫散以及受縫紉針損傷，推薦用圓頭針縫紉?！?/p>

Shouldertapemustbeusedforknitwearandjerseywear.針織物和毛衫類必須有肩帶。7·

Allpockets,sleevescuffsandcollarpointsmustbepaired.

所有口袋，袖克夫和領(lǐng)尖必須是成雙的?！?/p>

Allstresspoints(e.g.beltloops,crotchseams,etc.)mustbeadequatelyreinforced.

所有的受力點，例如腰袢，襠縫處等必須充分加固?！?/p>

Buttonholesmustbelockstitchedandtheymusthavesufficientstitchdensitytoavoidfraying.Forjeansandtrousersusegimpthreadinbuttonholes

紐孔必須鎖邊并且針腳密度足夠防止散邊。對于牛仔和褲裝要求用辮式鎖眼?！?/p>

Onpockettopcornersmustbeadequatelyreinforcedeitherbytriangletackorbartack.

口袋上角必須用三角針或打套結(jié)充分加固?！?/p>

Onjeanstheplacket/flyareashouldbefacedordoublefabricthickness.

牛仔服裝上/下門襟處必須貼面或雙層厚度本布面料。Wovenmustalsobefused.Theremustbeatleastonebar-tacktoreinforcethebottomoftheplacket.Theflyfacingorshieldshouldbetaperedandreinforcedwithtackingorfabrictape.Thezipshouldbesturdyenoughforthegarmentfabricandadequatelengthtoeasilyputonthejeans.Thezippersforthejeansmusthavealockfeature.

梭織物同樣需要如此保險，門襟底部需要至少一個套結(jié)加固。褲門襟貼片或腋下貼片必須是錐形的并且打套結(jié)或用本布帶加固。拉鏈相對于服裝面料必須有足夠強度且長度適當(dāng)方便牛仔穿脫。牛仔上的拉鏈必須有鎖頭特征。Thatisthatthezippullershouldremainatthetopwhenstressisapplied.

對拉鏈?zhǔn)┝r拉鏈頭不能脫出?！?/p>

Alsoonjeansflatfellseamsdoubleortriplestitchingprovidesflat,firmenclosedseams.Thesemustbesmoothlyconstructed.Thisseamconstructionencasestheseamallowancesothereisnoravelingduringwearingorwashing.Ifseamsarenotfellflat,youmustensureseamsareserged(overcast)tocovertherawedgesandthuspreventraveling.

對于牛仔衣物需要用雙線或三線外包縫的線跡保證止口平直牢固。拼接平穩(wěn)滑順。拼接縫包圍住縫頭不至于穿著或水洗時脫散。如果接縫不是外包邊，必須確?？p頭鎖邊并遮住毛邊防止散邊。Stitch/seamtypes緝線/拼縫類型·

Lockstitch鎖式縫跡

Usedfortopstitching,Frenchseams,attachingtrimsandcomponents,lining,collarandcuffseams.

用于輯明線，來去縫，拼縫輔料和服裝組件，里料，領(lǐng)子以及克夫拼縫處?！?/p>

Doublelock-chainstitch雙線鏈?zhǔn)骄€跡。8·

4-threadoverlock四線包縫

Usedforseamsonfleece,lightandmediumweightwovensandknitwear.

用于起絨織物，輕薄及中等克重梭織物和毛衫類拼縫。·

5-threadoverlock五線包縫

Usedforseamsonjeans,mediumandheavyweightwovens.

用于牛仔，中等和厚重梭織物拼縫·

Flatlock繃縫

Usedonjerseywearasadecorativefeature.

用于毛衫作為裝飾線·

Coverseam包邊縫

BackneckfinishforT-shirtandknitwear.Decorativeathems.

用于T恤及毛衫類后頸折光處以及在下擺處作裝飾。

Usedformulti-needleelastication

用于多針橡筋?！?/p>

3-threadoverlock三線包縫

UsedforseamsonT-shirts.

用于T恤拼縫。Accessories服飾配件

·

Allitemsmustbesecurelyfixedandmustworkasintended.

所有的配件必須安全牢固得縫制在服裝上并保持賦予它的功能?！?/p>

Decorativedetailingsuchasembroidery,contrastingpocketinsertsorpipingshouldbeevenlyandsmoothlyapplied.

裝飾細(xì)節(jié)例如繡花，撞色袋嵌線或包邊等縫制必須均勻圓順?！?/p>

Buttonholesshouldbefunctional,clearlycutandstitchedcloselywithnoloosethreadsorexposededges.紐孔必須是有功能的，清理干凈以及線跡緊密沒有松散浮線或暴露邊緣的現(xiàn)象?！?/p>

Qualitypocketshaveedgescarefullyturnedandhavebeenplacedevenlyandsecurelyonthegarment.

口袋邊緣謹(jǐn)慎翻轉(zhuǎn)并且平坦牢固得縫于衣服上。·

Liningandpocketfabricshouldbedurablewiththeedgesfinished.

里布和口袋布必須折光邊并且是可以持久耐用的。

Hemsshouldbeeven,flatandsecurelystitchedbeforepressing,asthisproblemwillnotpressoutaftercustomerwashesit.

下擺在熨燙前必須均勻平坦且縫制牢固，以保證顧客在清洗衣物后不會產(chǎn)生任何問題。9SECTION3PRESENTATIONGUIDELINES第三部分外觀指導(dǎo)·

Pocketsshouldbetackstitchclosedonformalgarmentswithalarge,loosestitch,unlessotherwisespecified

正裝上的口袋必須用寬松大距的假縫閉口除非有特別要求的除外。·

Garmentsshouldnotbecreased,crushedorglazed,Impressionsmustnotbevisibleinanyarea.服裝不能有折皺，受擠壓或產(chǎn)生表面極光。任何部位都不能有壓痕。·

Beforepackingallgarmentsshouldbeclearedofloosethreads,loosefibresandanyworktickets.包裝服裝前必須清除一切浮線，纖維以及任何工作票據(jù)?！?/p>

Allgarmentsshouldbegivenenoughtimetodrythoroughlyandrelaxbeforepacking.

所有服裝在包裝前必須有充分的時間徹底干燥舒緩?！?/p>

Ribsmustnotbesteampressed.

羅紋組織不能用蒸氣熨斗熨燙?！?/p>

Correctsizepackingcardmustbeusedtofitsizeofgarments.

服裝包裝時必須用正確的尺碼標(biāo)牌?！?/p>

Ifgarmentsdonotfitsizeofbox,suitablepackagingistobeused.如果服裝不適合箱形，需要采取適當(dāng)?shù)恼郫B方式。

BagsandwrappersaretobeBHTfreeandofmicronguageandmustberecyclable.

包裝袋和包裝材料不能含有BHT且按照指定的品質(zhì)同時必須是環(huán)保材質(zhì)的。Pressing整燙·

Prepressing-ensurethecharacteristicsofthefabricareassessed.

預(yù)燙——確保正確評估面料的特性?！?/p>

Allowancesshouldbemadeforshrinkageduringpressing,inaccordancewiththerelevantlabresults.按照相關(guān)的測試結(jié)果為整燙面料預(yù)留一定的縮量?！?/p>

Pressesshouldbeadjustedtoavoidglazing,Distortion,colourchanges,presscreasesanddamagetofabric.

整燙時適當(dāng)調(diào)節(jié)溫度防止產(chǎn)生極光，扭曲變形，變色，折痕以及破壞面料。Handironing手燙·

Steamandheatarerequiredtopressshape.VacuumHeat(nosteam)arerequiredto‘set’shape

蒸氣和熱量用來壓燙服裝的造型，干燙（無蒸氣）用來固定造型。·

Allseamstobepressedconsistentlyinonedirection.所有拼縫必須始終按照一個方向壓燙?！?/p>

Openseamsmustalwaysbepressedopenandflat.開口拼縫處需燙開燙平?！?/p>

Allliningsmustbesmoothwithnoimpressionsontheliningorouterfabric.Thewholegarmentmustbepressed.

所有里料必須平滑且面里料不能有燙痕。整件服裝必須是經(jīng)過熨燙的。

10DollyPressing/SteamCabinets墊布燙/蒸氣柜·

Thesemustonlybeusedwhereasatisfactoryfinishcanbeachievedontheparticulargarmentandfabrictype.僅用于為達(dá)到滿意的整理效果的特殊服裝和面料。FlatBeds燙床·

Knittedgarmentsmustnotbestretchedinordertoachievethespecification.針織服裝不能拉伸以達(dá)到相應(yīng)的尺寸規(guī)格?！?/p>

Framesmustbeusedwhereverpossibletostandardizeshape.用框架使服裝外形盡可能標(biāo)準(zhǔn)化。FinishedGoods后整理

·

Anexaminationsequenceforeachstyleshouldbeadheredtoatalltimes.

每一個款式服裝在任何時候都必須進(jìn)行程序性的檢查?！?/p>

Allgarmentsmustbegivensufficienttimetorelaxanddrythoroughlypriortopacking.包裝前所有的服裝都必須給予充分的時間閑置并且完全干燥?！?/p>

Garmentsmustbeappropriatelypackedandstoredinordertomaintainthebestpossibleretailstandard.

服裝必須適當(dāng)?shù)陌b儲藏已達(dá)到盡可能最佳的零售狀態(tài)?！?/p>

Thefollowingpointsshouldbeaddressed:以下幾點必須聲明：

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AllgarmentsshouldactinaccordancewithBritishandInternationalStandards.

所有服裝生產(chǎn)都必須符合英國和國際上的標(biāo)準(zhǔn)。

-ThefinalgarmentmustcomplywithBSspecification,inallaspects.服裝最終成品必須在各個方面符合公司的規(guī)格單。

-Thebulkproductionshouldconformtotheindividualcustomerssealofapproval.大貨必須完全同客人確認(rèn)的封樣。Labels商標(biāo)·

LabelsmustbesourcedandpositionedasspecifiedbyBSandthecustomer.商標(biāo)的供貨來源和縫制位置必須按照公司和客人的詳細(xì)要求?！?/p>

Allsewinlabelsmustbeneatlyandsecurelyattachedwithallprintingclearlyvisible.所有商標(biāo)的縫制必須牢固整潔并且印刷字跡清晰可見。

Garmentwashedproductsmustbelabeledafterwashing.

水洗服裝必須在水洗后縫制商標(biāo)。Packing包裝·

Stylenumberandsizeshouldbeonfrontofthepolybag.款號和尺碼必須顯示于膠袋正面?！?/p>

SafetyWarningshouldbetheonbackofthepolybag.

安全警告語必須顯示于膠袋背面。·

Allpackingshouldbeasinstructedonthepurchaseorders.所有包裝方式必須按照訂單上的指示。11SECTION4SAFETYREQUIREMENTS第四部分安全要求

Garments服裝·

Allnecessaryprecautionsmustbefollowedinproductiontominimiseanyrisktoourcustomers.Youmusttellusofanyissuesthatcouldriskthesafetyofourcustomers.貨物必須采取所有可以降低風(fēng)險的一切措施，使我們的客人將會面臨風(fēng)險的系數(shù)降到最低同時必須告知客戶任何會產(chǎn)生安全風(fēng)險的問題?！?/p>

Weexpectyoutotakeallpossibleprecautionstomakesurethatnofullorpartneedleremainsingarments.我們要求供應(yīng)商采取一切可能的預(yù)防措施防止整根或部分?jǐn)噌槡埩粼诜b上。

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Youmusthaveaneedlereplacementpolicyandsysteminallyourfactories.Thisproceduremustbedocumentedandanupdatedlogkept,readyforustoinspectifnecessary.Photocopiesmustbefaxedtousmonthly.供應(yīng)商的所有工廠必須有斷針紀(jì)錄和相關(guān)體制。這些程序必須有可證明的文件并定期更新已備我們需要時檢查。同時每月應(yīng)當(dāng)傳真給我們相關(guān)復(fù)印件。

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Ifwefindafullorpartneedleinagarment,thisisclassifiedascriticalfaultandwillresultintheproductbeingrejectedorrecalledfromstores,resultinginthewholedeliverybeingrejected.如果在服裝上發(fā)現(xiàn)一根全針或斷針，這會被劃分為極其危險的疵點將直接導(dǎo)致拒收貨物或取消此批貨物。同時還將導(dǎo)致拒收工廠已經(jīng)在運送途中的貨物。

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Allcomponentsshouldbenon-toxic.所有的成分必須是沒有毒性的。

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Donotusestaples,thisincludesallcartons.不能用釘書針，紙箱上不能有箱釘。

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Samplesmustbesentwithpaperworksigned,thiswillincludemeasurementsandanycommentsofobservation.寄樣衣時必須攜帶簽名文書，其中包括尺寸測量及檢查批注。Accessories服飾配件·

Theremustbenosharpedgesthatcouldresultininjurytothewearer.不能有尖銳的邊緣可能導(dǎo)致傷害穿著者。12

BSImports進(jìn)口貨物

ReplacementNeedlePolicy斷針紀(jì)錄Thefollowingpolicyappliestoallregionswithinthefactory,includingthesampleroom;itappliestoALLgarmentsproducedforBS.

以下方針適用于工廠的任何區(qū)域，包括樣衣間。同時適用于為公司制造的所有服裝。Aneedlefreeenvironmentmustbeachieved,allneedlesinuseandinstoragemustbecontrolledandaccountedfor;thisincludeshandsewing,machinesewing,taggunsorforknitting.必須達(dá)到無針環(huán)境，所有正在使用或備用的針具都必須受管制并且是可以說明用途的。這包括手縫針，機縫針，槍針或用于編織的針具?！?/p>

Factoryoperativesmustneverbeinpossessionofanyspareneedles.Onlyasupervisororauthorisedpersoncandistributespareneedlesinexchangeforbrokenorbluntones.

工廠中的操作者不能有備用針，只有監(jiān)督或管理人員能夠分發(fā)備用針，用來替換斷針或鈍化的針?！?/p>

Newneedlesmustbestoredinasafeplace,preferablyunderlockandkey,newneedleswillonlybeissuedonaoneforonebasisafterallpiecesoftheoldonehavebeenfound

新針必須貯藏在安全處，最好是帶鎖的地方。發(fā)放新針時必須在找到原有舊針?biāo)胁糠值幕A(chǔ)上一根替換一根?！?/p>

Ifallpartsofabrokenneedlecan’tbefound,thenthebundles/garmentsonwhichtheoperativeisworkingmustberemovedawayfromthelineandpassedthroughametaldetector.如果沒有找到斷針的全部部分，那么擁有斷針的操作者處理的所有成品或半成品服裝必須移開生產(chǎn)流水線并且通過金屬探測儀器?！?/p>

Ifthefactorydoesnothaveametaldetector,amagnetorhandheldmetaldetectormaybeusedtofindthebrokenneedleparts.

如果工廠沒有金屬探測儀器，那么就用磁鐵或手持探測物找到斷裂部分的針具?！?/p>

Allsuspectgarmentsmustbere-inspectedcarefullyuntileverygarmentisaccountedfor.Ifanypartsarestillmissingtheentiregarment(s)aretobedisposedofsafely.所有令人懷疑的服裝必須仔細(xì)得重新檢查，直至每一件服裝都確信沒有斷針隱患。如果斷針始終沒有被發(fā)現(xiàn)，那么這些衣物將需要采取安全措施?！?/p>

Needlefragmentsaretobetapedtogetherina“brokenneedlerecordsheet”,withthedate,operative,ifallpartsarefoundand,ifnot,whatactionwastakenandthesupervisorssignature.

斷針?biāo)槠枰o(jì)錄備案在《斷針記錄報告》上，并紀(jì)錄日期，操作者，是否找到全部斷裂部分，如果沒有，必須記錄采取了何種措施以及監(jiān)督者的簽名?！?/p>

Blunt/oldneedlesmustneverbedisposedofinwastebinsoronthefactoryfloor;theyshouldbeplacedinasealed,markedcontainerwhichiskeptwellawayfromtheproductionarea,trimmingstoreormechanicsworkshopsareideal.

鈍化/老舊的針決不能隨意處置，廢棄在柜子或工廠內(nèi)的室內(nèi)場地上。它們必須被放置在密封的標(biāo)有顯著記號的容器內(nèi)，并且遠(yuǎn)離生產(chǎn)區(qū)域。廢棄物儲藏室或機械車間都是理想的選擇地點。

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Suppliersareresponsibleforensuringthatthispolicyisappliedtoallareasofthefactory,includingthesampleroom,embroideryandappliqué.

供應(yīng)商有負(fù)責(zé)確認(rèn)工廠的任何區(qū)域都必須采取這項措施，包括打樣間，繡花間及貼花間。

Machinesnotinusemusthavetheneedleinthedownpositioninascrapoffabric.

縫紉機不用時必須放下針處于低位并插在小塊布片上。13Pins大頭針·

Pinsmustnotbeusedinanypartofthefactory.Thisincludesthesamplerooms,cutting,make-up,inspectionofpackingareaoranyotherareaswheregarments/componentsarehandled.

工廠的任何車間都不能用大頭針。其中包括樣衣間、裁剪間、縫制間、檢查包裝間或任何處理成衣/部件的區(qū)域。·

Suppliersareresponsibleforensuringthatthispolicyisappliedtoembroidery,appliquéandprintingoperationswhetherin-houseoronanothersite.供應(yīng)商有責(zé)任確保這項措施適用于繡花，貼花以及印花操作處，無論這些程序是在廠房內(nèi)進(jìn)行或其它地點進(jìn)行?！?/p>

Anytrimse.g.elasticandbindings,whicharrivewithpinssecuringtheends,aretohavethepinsremovedimmediatelyandreplacedwithtape.任何輔料例如橡筋，包邊帶等，在尾端處用大頭針定位時，必須立刻移除并用繩帶代替。

HandSewingandknitNeedles手縫針和編織針·

Handsewinglabelsaretobeheldbythesupervisororotherauthorisedresponsibleperson,needlesshouldbeissuedandsignedforatthebeginningofeachworkingperiod,attheendofeachworkingperiodtheyshouldbereturnedtopersonresponsibleandsignedasreturned.手縫標(biāo)簽必須由監(jiān)督者或者其它被授予責(zé)任的相關(guān)人員全權(quán)負(fù)責(zé)。每次開工前責(zé)任人發(fā)放手縫針并讓接受者簽名，工作結(jié)束后，返還責(zé)任人同時簽名?！?/p>

Handsewingneedlesarenotallowedintheproductionarea,aquarantineareamustbeprovidedfortheuseofsewingneedles.手縫針不允許出現(xiàn)在大貨生產(chǎn)區(qū)域，必須為手縫針使用者提供隔離區(qū)域。·

Anygarmentsthatneedsrepairsduetothewashingprocessesshouldberepairedbymachine,asthiswillgiveamoreconsistentandstrongerfinishthanbyhand.任何由于水洗程序產(chǎn)生損害而需要返修的服裝必須用機械修整。因為這樣比使用手縫針返修縫合得更和諧牢固?！?/p>

Knitneedlesforrepairsmustbeinsertedintoawoodenholderwithacordattached,thiscanthenbeattachedtothetable.

用于修補的編織針必須插在木制的容器中并用繩線捆綁，容器外貼上標(biāo)簽?！?/p>

Intheeventofaneedlegoingmissingallgarmentsintheareamustbecheckedwithametaldetector,ifitisnotfoundthewholeareaistobecheckedwithamagnetandahandheldmetaldetector.如果在操作處發(fā)生丟失針的情況，所有該區(qū)域中的衣物都必須經(jīng)過金屬探測機，若沒有找到，全部區(qū)域必須用磁鐵或手執(zhí)式金屬探測器檢測。

Staples,PaperClipsandScissors釘書針，紙夾和剪刀·

Staplesarenottobeusedonthefactoryfloor.工廠廠房內(nèi)不能有釘書針?！?/p>

Anydocumentforuseinproductionareasshouldhavethestaplesremoved.生產(chǎn)區(qū)域中任何文件上的釘書針都必須移除。·

Staplesshouldnotbeusedonpatternsinproductionareas.生產(chǎn)區(qū)域中任何圖案文件上不能用釘書針。14

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Metalpaperclipsarenottobeusedinproductionareas.生產(chǎn)區(qū)域中不能有金屬紙夾?！?/p>

Threadclippers/smallscissorsforusebysewingoperatorsshouldbeattachedtothemachine.縫紉工使用的剪刀必須捆綁在縫紉機上?！?/p>

Threadclippersforusebythreadtrimmersshouldbeattachedtothetrimmingtable.修剪清理工使用的減線頭剪刀必須捆綁在清理臺上。SewingAccessories,MachinePartsandScrewDrivers縫紉附件，機械零件和螺絲起子工具·

Threadunpickersshouldbeattachedtothesewingmachine.拆線器必須附在縫紉機上?！?/p>

Tweezers(forthreadingofoverlockingmachines)shouldbeattachedtothesewingmachine.鉗子（拷邊機上）必須附在機械上?！?/p>

Mechanicsshouldensurethatallmachineparts(e.g.nuts,screws,springsetc.)areeitherreplacedorcompletelyremovedfromthemachine.Particularattentionshouldbepaidtoremovingusedbuttonholeblades.機械工必須確認(rèn)機械上的所有的零部件（例如螺母，螺桿，彈簧等）或在原位或被完全移除。尤其應(yīng)注意移開切紐孔刀片。·

Sparepresserfeet,folders&othermachineattachmentsshouldbestoredawayfromthemachine-ideallyinthemechanicsoffice.備用的壓腳，折疊器和其它機械附件必須遠(yuǎn)離機械貯藏。理想的地點是機械專用室?！?/p>

Screwdriversforusewhenchangingsewingneedlesshouldbestoredinasafeplacewiththeneedles.Theyshouldbeissuedbythesupervisorwithanewneedleandreturnedbytheoperatorwhentheneedlehasbeenchanged.替換機縫針時用的螺絲起子必須同機縫針一起包存在安全的地方。由管理者同新?lián)Q的縫紉針一起發(fā)放，操作者完成換針后必須返還予管理者。

Allmechanicsshouldbeissuedwithalockabletoolbox.Alltoolsshouldbestoredinthisboxwhennotinuse.

所有的機械工必須裝配在一個帶鎖的工具箱，所有的工具不被使用時必須放在工具箱內(nèi)。MetalDetectors金屬探測器·

Metaldetectorsareseenasanaidtopreventmetalcontamination,theyarenothoweverrecommendedasthesolemeansofpreventingmetalcontamination

金屬探測器被視為防止金屬污染的輔助工具。但并不推薦為唯一的防止金屬污染的方法?！?/p>

Themetaldetectoritselfmustbetestedatleastonceadayandtheresultsrecorded.每日必須至少檢查一次金屬探測器本身并記錄結(jié)果?！?/p>

Anygarment,whichfailstopassthroughthemetaldetectionstage,mustbesetasideandthoroughlycheckedformetalcontamination.Ifthesourceofthecontaminationisnotfoundthenthegarmentmustbedestroyed.任何沒有通過金屬探測標(biāo)準(zhǔn)的服裝都必須擺放在一邊并徹底檢查金屬污染物，若始終未發(fā)現(xiàn)金屬污染源，此件服裝必須被銷毀。15Toxicity毒性

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Inordertoachievethedesiredappearanceandeffectmanymaterialsandcomponentsincorporatepigments,colourants,andlacquersorcoatings.WhereusedtheymustcomplywithToySafetyStandardBSEN71:Part3:1995.ConcerningtheMigrationofCertainToxicElements.

為了達(dá)到期望的外觀和效果，許多種原料和組件需要混合染色，著色，染色，漆色或涂層。運用在服裝部件上的這些燃料必須符合玩具安全標(biāo)準(zhǔn)。（詳細(xì)見1995年頒布的第三部分71條關(guān)于毒性轉(zhuǎn)移原理的安全標(biāo)準(zhǔn)）。

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Fabricsmustnotcontainheavymetalsthatmigratebeyondthelimitsspecifiedinthisstandard.面料中不能含有超出此標(biāo)準(zhǔn)中指定限制的重金屬物質(zhì)。

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Dyestuffscanbetoxicandcauseharmfuleffectstohumans.TheEUpublishalistofdyestuffsknowntobeharmfultohumans.SuchdyestuffsmustnotbeusedonanytextilematerialsdestinedforBSproducts.

染料中的毒性會傷害人體。英方出版過一份關(guān)于目前所知會傷害人體的染料的清單。清單中所列舉的這些染料不能用于任何出口至公司的貨物中?！?/p>

Itisthesupplier’sresponsibilitytokeepabreastofanynewdevelopmentsonToxicity.GarmentmakersmustcommunicatetheEUlisttotheirfabricsupplierswho,whererelevant,mustcommunicatetotheirfabricprocessors.供應(yīng)商有責(zé)任繼續(xù)追蹤關(guān)于毒性方面的進(jìn)一步研究發(fā)現(xiàn)。服裝制造商必須和他們的相關(guān)面料供應(yīng)商及處理面料的廠方很好的溝通關(guān)于這份毒性清單的內(nèi)容。

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Fabricsandgarmentcomponentscancontainelements,whicharetoxic.WheresuchfabricsandcomponentsareusedtheymustcomplywiththemigrationlimitsoftheToySafetyStandardsBSEN:Part3:1995.面料及服裝各組成部分的成分有可能含有毒性。運用這些面輔料時必須遵守安全標(biāo)準(zhǔn)。

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FabricsforBSmerchandisemustnotcontainheavymetals,whichmigratebeyondthelimitsspecifiedintheabovestandard.用于公司貨物的面料中不能含有超出安全標(biāo)準(zhǔn)的重金屬物質(zhì)。

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FabricSuppliersmustobtainacertificatefromtheirfabricprocessorsthatthedyestuffsandchemicalsusedconformtothecustomersindividualEnvironmentalandCustomerHealthCodeofPracticeforDyeing,PrintingandFinishing.Dyestuffs,whichareknowntobeharmfultohumans,mustnotbeusedinfabricssuppliedtoBS.面料供應(yīng)商必須從他們的面料處理廠家獲得相關(guān)證明書以顯示所用染料和化學(xué)藥劑完全遵守客人關(guān)于染色，印花及整理對于環(huán)境影響和人體健康的標(biāo)準(zhǔn)。對人體有傷害的染料不能提供給公司。

ItistheFabricSuppliersresponsibilitytokeepabreastofanynewdevelopmentsonToxicityandtocommunicate,whererelevant,thisinformationtotheirfabricprocessors.面料供應(yīng)商有責(zé)任繼續(xù)追蹤關(guān)于毒性的新的研究發(fā)現(xiàn)并把最新的信息傳遞給相關(guān)的面料處理廠家。

16Nickel鎳TheDirective指示Nickelisthemostfrequentcauseofcontactallergyleadingtodermatitis/eczema.ThefollowingEuropeanlegislationhasbeenintroduced:-S.I.No1668ThedangerousSubstancesPreparations(Nickel)(Safety)Regulations2000.

鎳是引起接觸性過敏導(dǎo)致皮疹和濕疹最頻繁的原因。Whichproductsareaffected?那些產(chǎn)品受其影響？

Allmetalproducts(coatedornon-coated)thathave‘prolongedcontactwiththeskin.Theseit